There is a vast choice of fishes available to marine aquarium hobbyists. They all differ to some extent in size, color plus shape from the hundreds of species collected for sale. However, there are a few that constantly garner notice from the community due to their beauty. Let us take a look at these recognizable saltwater fishes.

At number one, we have Amphiprion Percula plus Amphiprion Ocellaris. They make up the most recognizable along with recognizable saltwater fishes for sale in the industry. Some of you might have seen finding nemo, where the species is represented. To the hobbyist however, they are usually known as the True percula and the false percula.

They look almost completely similar with the difference being the number of dorsal spines present. Amphiprion ocellaris sells for very low due to large amounts being collected from the seas. Amphiprion Percula regularly are a bit pricier as well as not quite as common. Both of them do well in captivity in addition to are a good choice for beginners to the hobby.

Next, we have the Yellow tang in addition to Blue Tangs. They are the poster child of the tang family with both of them commonly featured on a selection of posters promoting some product or another. The movie Finding Nemo also starred the blue tang. Dory, the clumsy blue fishes in the movie was a blue tang. Blue tangs are normally cheaper than yellow tangs as they are imported in huge quantities.

Make certain they are treated for any parasites before introducing them to your tank plus they will turn out to be great specimens. Like all surgeonfish, they are susceptible to marine ich along with lateral line disease. In the wild they graze on algae in addition to this diet should be emulated in captivity.

Finally, we take a look at 4 members of the angelfish family. They are the gorgeous Emperor angelfish, the all beautiful flame angelfish, the queen angelfish along with the french angelfish. They are always in demand by some saltwater hobbyist or another. They are the most pricey popular fish in this article. For very large, show quality specimens of queen angelfish, french angelfish as well as emperor angelfish, expect to pay hundreds per specimen.

Flame angelfish are the cheapest angelfish of the group. But that does not reflect on its beauty as it is easily on of the most stunning members of the family centropyge. They should be fed a well rounded diet that includes seafood as well as seaweed in addition to algae. They are also identified to consume corals in the wild so be warned.

For a exceptionally full guide on Queen Angelfish plus the Emperor Angelfish, do drop by the authors hubpage for how to guides about a range of saltwater aquarium fish as well as corals.

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The yellow tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens) along with the blue tang (paracanthurus Hepatus), percula clownfish (ocellaris and percula), Flame Angelfish (Centropyge Loriculus) and the royal gramma (Gramma Loreto), makeup the 5 most recognizable fishes in the hobby. It is also the most popular tang in the surgeonfish family and its very easy to see why. Its entire body is a brilliant pastel yellow.

The yellow tang is commonly collected from Hawaii and the nearby islands. Once acclimated the yellow tang is a hardy fish that is peaceful with other fishes (Outside of the tang family) which makes it a popular choice for community aquariums. Care should be taken when choosing specimens as most tangs and surgeonfish are ich magnets and also susceptible to lateral line erosion. A heavily collected species, the yellow tang fetches about $30-$40 for smaller individuals while larger ones are priced in the $60-$70 range.

The yellow tang is a relatively peaceful fish that is not prone to bullying other species of fish large or small. Making it an attractive candidate for all aquariums. It can be aggressive towards other members of the tang family but such cases are normally alleviated with providing ample space for all of them.

In they wild they are a schooling fish and such behavior can be witnessed in captivity. When planning on keeping multiple yellow tangs it is essential that they all be introduced at the same time.

The Yellow Tang can reach up to 8 inches in length so its best to stick with larger tanks. While a 150 gallon or larger tank is recommended, they can housed in a 100 gallon aquarium.

They are sometimes bought by unwary hobbyists at sizes as small as 2 inches where they are placed in aquariums as small as 30 gallons. They will quickly outgrow such tanks, leaving the owner with the headache of finding a buyer for it, or finding a larger aquarium to house it. They are a brave fish that don't necessarily require many caves and dark spots for shelter but enough live rock should be provided as they require a place to sleep every night.

Yellow tangs are a schooling fish in the wild that graze on live rock for most of the day. They feed mainly on algae so such foods should be offered frequently. Ensure they get enough algae based foods in captivity as algae makes up the bulk of their diet in the wild. Unlike marine angelfish, they are completely reef safe and do not bother corals, one of the reasons why they're so popular in marine reef aquariums.

Seaweed/Nori sheets are a great food for tangs. You have a choice between branded stuff like Julian Sprungs sea veggies or supermarket brands which can be either cheap or expensive. Be sure to get unflavoured nori.

Despite being herbivores in the wild, they are receptive to a wide range of foods in captivity. So go ahead and feed them a good variety of items, not just greens.

They should be fed good alga and seafood mixes like Formula One and Formula Two by Ocean Nutrition as well as a good pellet. New Life Spectrum produces some excellent pellets for all marine fishes.

I see a lot of fish stores feeding yellow tangs lettuce on a clip. Here's a tip. Never feed your tangs lettuce. Romaine or iceberg, it doesn't matter, nutritionally its garbage.

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When it comes to popular marine fish, the Ocellarish Clownfish (Amphiprion Ocellaris) is the undisputed king. The Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion Percula) shares its throne, since they look entirely alike to most people. They are the marine aquarium hobby's greatest ambassadors. Many people might correlate their popularity with the release of the hit animated film, Finding Nemo. What they wouldn't know is the fact that these clown fish were just as popular before the film was released.

These clownfish are a staple offering in the hobby. They are heavily collected from their natural habitats in South East Asia, they are the most abundant ornamental marine fish at the moment. You'll find at least one ocellaris clownfish for sale in any saltwater pet store you visit. They are also heavily bred in captivity with tank-raised ocellaris priced a little higher than wild caught specimens.

Ocellaris clownfish are entirely orange with three white bands (outlined with black) around their heads, body and near their tail. Percula and ocellaris are almost indistinguishable to the untrained eye. Yet they are both slightly different physically. Ocellaris clowns have 11 dorsal spines while percula's have 10. Thankfully there's an easier method to tell them apart. Ocellaris clownfish have thinner black outlines.

One of the cheapest marine fish you can buy, for as little as $10 you can have an ocellaris clownfish. A few dollars more can buy a tank-raised specimen. Given a choice, you should always go for tank-bred clownfish as they're generally better suited to captive life.

Their common names include the false percula clown and the false clown anemonefish. They are called anemonefish because of the symbiotic relationship they have with anemones. The anemone cannot sting clownfish, it is speculated that clownfish produce a mucus that renders them invisible to the anemone. In the wild ocellaris clownfish are always found nestled within their host anemones, however, these anemones are not needed in the aquarium.

Ocellaris clownfish are generally peaceful fish that get along well with tank mates. However, they can be hostile towards other clownfish from within or outside their species. There are three routes you can take when looking for pair :-

* Acquire a mated pair from the LFS * Put a large one in with a small one and hope they pair up * Purchase two small ones and put them together, eventually one will dominate the other and become a female, pairing up in the process

I cannot give a guarantee that options 2 or 3 will work 100% of the time.

Reaching a maximum of 3 inches in length, they are considered a small fish. Ocellaris are site attached, which means they are usually around their territory (a small area) most of the time. Their territory is anything from a pile of rubble to an anemone. They have also been known to host other corals like elegance or mushroom corals. Because of this behavior they can be kept in aquariums no larger than 20 gallons.

Getting them to eat in captivity is easy because they seem to able to eat anything you offer. While they are omnivores in the wild, they consume both meaty and algae based food in the aquarium. They should be fed a wide variety of foods. Prime reef, Formula One and Formula two are some good dry foods to offer. Formula two has an added amount of algae mixed in with seafood while Prime reef is mostly meaty.

New Life Spectrum produces in my opinion the best pellet food on the market. Add in some frozen food like krill or mysis shrimp and you're set.

Overall, with their hardy nature, good looks and endearing nature, they are a great choice for hobbyists from all experience levels.

Roman Veaila is a hobbyist that has kept numerous reef aquariums. In his spare time he writes guides on saltwater fish. Visit his hubpage for a more detailed guide on the Ocellaris Clownfish as well as other popular Clownfish.

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The Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens) is one of the most recognizable fishes in the marine aquarium industry along with the blue tang (Paracanthurus Hepatus), percula clownfish (percula, Ocellaris) and the Flame Angelfish (Centropyge Loriculus). It is the most popular member of the tang family and it isn't hard to see why. The entire fish is colored a bright pastel like yellow.

This tang hails from Hawaii and its surrounding islands. Once acclimated the yellow tang is a hardy fish that is peaceful with other fishes (Outside of the tang family) which makes it a popular choice for community aquariums. Care should be taken when choosing specimens as most tangs and surgeonfish are ich magnets and also susceptible to lateral line erosion. A heavily collected species, the yellow tang fetches about $30-$40 for smaller individuals while larger ones are priced in the $60-$70 range.

A peaceful fish, the yellow tang does not normally bully larger or smaller tank mates. Making it an attractive candidate for all aquariums. It can be aggressive towards other members of the tang family but such cases are normally alleviated with providing ample space for all of them.

In they wild they are a schooling fish and such behavior can be witnessed in captivity. If more than one is desired they should be introduced into the tank at the same time.

Yellow tangs can grow to 8 inches in length so only house the in larger tanks. Nothing smaller than a 100 gallons should be used, 150 gallon or bigger is recommended.

This popular fish is all too often bought when they're 2 to 3 inches and kept in tanks as small as 30 gallons. They will quickly outgrow such tanks, leaving the owner with the headache of finding a buyer for it, or finding a larger aquarium to house it. They are a brave fish that don't necessarily require many caves and dark spots for shelter but enough live rock should be provided as they require a place to sleep every night.

Yellow tangs are a schooling fish in the wild that graze on live rock for most of the day. As such, a large percentage of their diet should be made up of algae. Ensure they get enough algae based foods in captivity as algae makes up the bulk of their diet in the wild. You will see them in both fish-only tanks as well as reef aquariums because the yellow tang is completely reef safe.

Nori sheets are a good food for these fishes. You have a choice between branded stuff like Julian Sprungs sea veggies or supermarket brands which can be either cheap or expensive. Always get plain, unflavoured nori.

While they are strictly vegetarians in the wild, they will normally consume anything that is offered in a saltwater aquarium. So they should be fed not just greens but a wide variety of items.

They should be fed good alga and seafood mixes like Formula One and Formula Two by Ocean Nutrition as well as a good pellet. A good pellet brand to choose would be those made by New Life Spectrum.

Many fish stores can be seen giving their tangs lettuce to nibble on. Never feed your tangs lettuce. Romaine or iceberg, it doesn't matter, nutritionally its garbage.

Roman Veaila is a hobbyist that has kept numerous reef aquariums. In his spare time he writes guides on marine fishes. Visit his hubpage for a more detailed guide on Yellow Tang as well as the always popular Blue Tang Fish.

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The Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion Ocellaris) reigns supreme in the most popular marine fish category. The Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion Percula) shares its throne, since they look entirely alike to most people. They are the marine aquarium hobby's greatest ambassadors. Many people might correlate their popularity with the release of the hit animated film, Finding Nemo. They don't realize these clown fish were already popular before the film was released.

These clownfish are a staple offering in the hobby. They hail from South East Asia and are heavily collected for the trade, they are the most plentiful ornamental marine fish at the moment. Walk into any saltwater pet store and you'll find at least one ocellaris there for sale. They are also heavily bred in captivity with tank-raised ocellaris priced a little higher than wild caught specimens.

Ocellaris clownfish are entirely orange with three white bands (outlined with black) around their heads, body and near their tail. Ocellaris and Percula clowns look almost alike. But they are both physically different, only slightly. Ocellaris clowns have 11 dorsal spines while percula's have 10. Fortunately, there is an easier way. Percula clownfish have thicker, more pronounced black outlines while those on the ocelaris are always thin.

One of the cheapest marine fish you can buy, for as little as $10 you can have an ocellaris clownfish. Tank raised ocellaris usually cost a few dollars more. Given a choice, never go with wild caught specimens as tank-bred ones are generally hardier and better suited to the aquarium.

They are commonly known as the false percula clown and the false clown anemonefish. They are called anemonefish because of the symbiotic relationship they have with anemones. The anemone cannot sting clownfish, it is thought they have a layer of mucus on their bodies that fool the anemone into thinking there's nothing there. While ocellaris clownfish are always found hosting anemones in the wild, anemones are not required for survival in captivity.

Generally peaceful, these cownfish get along well with a wide variety of tank mates. However, they can be hostile towards other clownfish from within or outside their species. There are three routes you can take when looking for pair :-

* Purchase a mated pair * Put a large one in with a small one and hope they pair up * Put two small ones together and let them work it out, the winner will turn into a female

I cannot give a guarantee that options 2 or 3 will work 100% of the time.

Considered a small fish, ocellaris clownfish only reach 3 inches in length. They are a site attached fish, which means they do not leave their territory (a small area) all that often. Their territory can be anything from an anemone to some pieces of live rock. Mushroom and elegance corals have been hosted by the ocellaris when an anemone isn't available. Because of this behavior they can be kept in aquariums no larger than 20 gallons.

Feeding them prepared foods is an east task because they consume almost anything offered. While they are omnivores in the wild, they consume both meaty and algae based food in the aquarium. Offer them a wide variety of foods. Some good dry foods to feed are Formula One, Formula Two and Prime Reef. Formula two has an added amount of algae mixed in with seafood while Prime reef is mostly meaty.

The best pellet food on the market are those made by New Life Spectrum. Mix in some frozen foods like mysis shrimp or krill and they will be very happy.

Overall, the ocellaris clownfish is a hardy fish that is a great choice for both beginners and experienced aquarists alike.

Roman Veaila is a hobbyist that has kept numerous reef aquariums. In his spare time he writes guides on saltwater fishes. Visit his hubpage for a more detailed guide on the Ocellaris Clownfish as well as other popular Clown Fish.

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The Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus Splendidus) is quite simply one of the most breathtaking marine fishes ever to hit the hobby. Blue, green and orange lines and patches are intricately painted onto this spectacular fish. They commonly go by the name, mandarin goby, despite not being a true goby at all. The mandarin dragonet is its true name.

The mandarin dragonet is heavily collected from the Indo-Pacific. Despite its common appearance at marine pet stores all over the world, it has an abysmal survival rate in our aquariums. We will see why later on.

The mandarin dragonet is one of the most unaggressive fishes available in the trade. They are aggressive only towards other members of the genus such as the scooter dragonets. If you're interested in a pair of mandarin dragonets, look for a mandarin with an elongated first spine (a male) and look for one without (a female) and put them together.

Mandarins can grow as long as 4 inches. Technically, they require a tank no smaller than 30 gallons, only if you can get them to eat. Getting them to eat prepared foods is a real challenge. This is because they only feed on live copepods. Therefore, they need a tank full of live copepods, something like a 75 gallon established aquarium. This way, you'd never have to feed them. The tank will feed it so to speak, with its copepod populations.

With some time and a lot of effort, mandarin fish can be trained to accept prepared foods, even pellets.First, you need adult live brine shrimp. They are receptive to live brine shrimp so getting them to eat it is a task that will take care of itself. Next, introduce some frozen artemia with the live ones during your next feeding. Once they begin eating frozen brine shrimp you can breathe a sigh of relief, but its not over yet. We need to slowly get them to accept a more nutritious food like mysis shrimp.

As before, mix in some mysis shrimp with the frozen artemia. The deed is done once they start taking mysis shrimp. You should try and get them other foods such as a good pellet and krill.

But wait, you've just solved one problem. They are painfully slow feeders. Their tank mates will finish everything before it gets a chance to grab a single mysis. This problem can be solved in three simple ways. You could feed a lot more, thereby ensuring some food will be left for the mandarin and in the process, foul up your tank. Or, you can use a pipette to spot feed your mandarin dragonet. Lastly, you can find a bottle with an entrance only big enough for the mandarin and stuff some food in there.

All of these methods will work.

Roman Veaila is a hobbyist that has kept numerous reef aquariums. In his spare time he writes guides on marine fishes. Visit his hubpage for more detailed guides on Synchiropus Splendidus as well as the always popular Flame Angelfish.

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Liopropoma Swalesi is a small deep water basslet commonly found around the waters of Indonesia. As with other members of the genus, it has a body that resembles an arrowhead, sleek and streamlined. It rarely tops 4 inches while most specimens come at 2 to 3 inches in size. They are not as popular as other marine basslets such as the royal gramma.

Orange stripes line its faded purple body horizontally while its snout is a dark gray. Their dorsal and anal fins both have a single black spot.

It is reputed to be the shyest member of the genus. Common names include the Pacific Candy Basslet, Swalesi Basslet, Swale's Swissguard Basslet and my favorite, the poor mans Candy Basslet. That last description is in reference to Liopropoma Carmabi, the candy basslet.

Differentiating the two is an easy enough task. Liopropoma Carmabi lacks a black spot on the anal fin, costs ten times as much as Liopropoma Swalesi and has colors that are very striking. So striking that they're the probably the most wanted fish among liopropoma enthusiasts.

They are an expensive fish as far as ornamental marine fish go, expect to pay between $80 to $120 USD for one. Not a common fish, getting your hands on one maybe a bit difficult. Sadly, the Swalesi Basslet is one of the more difficult deep water basslets to keep, mainly because it is a very shy fish.

In a nutshell, rearing of the swalesi basslet is either going to be nearly impossible or very easy. Throughout this guide i will touch on various factors that will make or break your effort to keep this elusive creature.

The Swalesi Basslet is one of the shyest fishes you are likely to get. It will get along just fine with other fishes in the saltwater aquarium as long as they aren't aggressive. Very small tank mates (Neon gobies, Sexy Shrimp) run the risk being eaten.

I mentioned earlier how this basslet would be very easy or nearly impossible to keep. 3 things of great importance to take into consideration :-

* The size of your aquarium * Tank mates * Available caves

A 15 to 30 gallon tank is better suited to these shy fish. This is because in smaller aquariums they have fewer tank mates (well at least they should) and you have more control over the tank. Changes to the rock scape as well as removal of tank mates can be done with ease. Which is difficult in a 150 gallon aquarium. In tanks that size, removal is nearly impossible without a total tear down. It is very likely that you will hardly see the basslet either.

"Quiet" tanks are a important if you want them to do well. By quiet i mean an aquarium with very little daily activity. Housing them in an aquarium with too many active fish will mean slow death for them. They should be in smaller aquariums that were designed just for them or tanks with very few tank mates. The genus Liopropoma are made of deep water cave basslets. As such, the rock scape in your saltwater aquarium MUST contain at least a few caves for them to take refuge in. These fishes do not do well in tanks with "open" scapes and will surely die in such settings.They may refuse to feed if they are constantly being harassed by an aggressive fish. Which is a commonly reported case i might add. They retreat to a shaded area and refuse to come out to eat.

Since they come from deeper water, they aren't used to lighting levels as intense as is normally seen in aquariums. Don't worry if you don't see them too often after introduction. Give them time to slowly adjust.

All cave basslets are carnivores. They actively scan the rock work in and around their shelter for small crustaceans. They do not take dry foods. They will spit out just about every type of pellet you can offer. I;ve also tried dried krill, dried shrimp, basically dried anything won't work. Stick with frozen foods.

They should be offered a wide range of meaty foods. Offer frozen foods like Krill, Mysis shrimp and Prime Reef (A good blend of raw seafood). Don't be worried if they don't feed right away, they require up to a week to adapt to their new environment. When feeding initially, turn off the pumps and put frozen mysis shrimp in their cave. Wait 10 minutes, then turn the pumps back and look for any floating pieces of mysis, there should be none. I have found that they are very receptive to mysis shrimp, probably because they recognize the shape.

Despite its beauty, this fish isn't for everybody. This fish isn't for you if you want a fish that you can see swimming out in the open everyday.

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The Coral Beauty (Centropyge Bispinosus) is a commonly available marine angelfish that sits firmly within the lower price range bracket unlike many of its cousins. $15 to $20 should net you this fish just about anywhere. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame Angel though), the combination of flame like coloration on a deep blue body plus the price is bound to make this angel a popular fish among hobbyists.

They are commonly know as the Dusky Angelfish and the Two-Spined angelfish. These dwarf angelfish are collected heavily for the trade as they are common throughout the Indo-Pacific.

Some of them have been known to have been caught with the use of cyanide, particularly those from the Philippines. Coral beauty angelfish from the Philippines tend to have high mortality rates, no surprises there. Goosed colors (Brighter than usual colors) are common in cyanide collected fishes. They may do fine for a month and then suddenly perish inexplicably.

The coral beauty angel can reach up to 4 inches in the wild so in the interest of allowing it room to breathe i'd suggest at least a 50 gallon. A 75 gallon or larger tank is of course, recommended.

Coral beauty angelfish are not as aggressive as other members in the genus and they mostly ignore other species of fish. But it is aggressive towards other dwarf angels and the same species so avoid putting two coral beauty angelfish in the a small tank. If you insist on having two coral beauty angelfish then you can either ensure the aquarium is large enough or you could buy a mated pair if you're lucky. Not likely though. Torn fins are a common occurrence between two fighting dwarf angelfish.

In the wild, dwarf angelfish are all grazers. Like surgeonfish, they scan the rock throughout the day for food. They feed on small crustaceans, algae of various types and sometimes even detritus.

A well balanced diet should be given in a saltwater aquarium. Foods from many food groups should be given for variety. Never feed them a specific type of food for too long. Although there have been people that have fed them new life spectrum pellets for months at a time with no ill effects. They were all very healthy in fact.

They should be offered nori/algae sheets in addition to a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two) and a good pellet like those produced by New Life Spectrum.

The perfect food for dwarf angels is the Pygmy Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition. Ingredients such as kelp, krill, squid,squid, vitamins and minerals and much more are used in this frozen food. The ingredients mentioned are all added prior to freezing. Unfortunately there is only one form of Pygmy Angel Formula, frozen cubes.

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The Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion Percula) is the most heavily collected marine fish in the hobby along with the Ocellaris clownfish. Many people might correlate their popularity with the release of the hit animated film, Finding Nemo. But these clown fish were just as popular before Finding Nemo was released.

Percula clownfish are staple offerings in the hobby. Heavily collected from the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu and Northern Queensland. A common fish that is only outdone by their twin, the ocellaris.They are also heavily bred in captivity with tank-raised specimens costing slightly more than wild percula's.

These fishes are all orange with a thick white band (outlined with black) running down their bodies, heads and right before their tails. To the casual onlooker both the ocellaris and percula look the same. But they are both physically different, only slightly. The difference is in the number of dorsal spines they both have, 11 for the ocellaris and 10 for the percula. Fortunately, there is an easier way. Percula clownfish have thicker, more pronounced black outlines while those on the ocelaris are always thin.

They usually cost twice what ocellaris clownfish go for, with juveniles fetching up to $20 per specimen. Tank raised percula's usually cost a few dollars more. Given a choice, you should always go for tank-bred clownfish as they're generally better suited to captive life.

Their common names include the true percula clown and the true clown anemonefish. They are called anemonefish because of the symbiotic relationship they have with anemones. The anemone cannot sting clownfish, it is thought they have a layer of mucus on their bodies that fool the anemone into thinking there's nothing there. While percula clownfish are always found hosting anemones (H.Crispa, H.Magnifica) in the wild, anemones are not required for survival in captivity.

Percula clownfish are generally peaceful fish that get along well with tank mates. However, they are aggressive towards other clownfish outside or within their species. There are three routes you can take when looking for pair :-

* Buy a pair from the pet store * Put a large one in with a small one and hope they pair up * Buy two small ones and put them together, they'll fight, with the winner turning into a female

There are no guarantees that options 2 and 3 will work.

Considered a small fish, percula clownfish only reach 3 inches in length. All clownfish are site attached, which means they rarely stray from their territory (a small area). Their territory can be anything from an anemone to some pieces of live rock. When an anemone isn't available, they can even host other corals such as mushroom or elegance corals. They can be housed aquariums as small as 20 gallons due to this behaviour.

Captive percula clownfishes are very easy to feed because they consume almost anything offered. While they are omnivores in the wild, they will eat both algae and meaty foods in an aquarium. A wide variety of foods should be given. Prime reef, Formula One and Formula two are some good dry foods to offer. Formula two has an added amount of algae mixed in with seafood while Prime reef is mostly made up of seafood.

The best pellet food on the market are those made by New Life Spectrum. Add in some frozen food like krill or mysis shrimp and you're set.

Overall, the ocellaris is great choice for both beginners and experienced hobbyists.

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The Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus Splendidus) is one of the most stunning fishes ever to reach the hobby. It almost looks like a painting with its blue, orange and green lines and patches all across its body. Despite not being a true goby, the name "mandarin goby" seems to have stuck with this fish. A more accurate name for it is the mandarin dragonet.

The mandarin dragonet is heavily collected from the Indo-Pacific. Despite its popularity, they do very poorly in captivity. I will touch on this later.

As far as temperament goes, they are very peaceful fish. They are only aggressive towards conspecifics such as psychedelic and scooter dragonets. If you're interested in a pair of mandarin dragonets, look for a mandarin with an elongated first spine (a male) and look for one without (a female) and put them together.

These fishes can attain lengths of up to 4 inches. A 30 gallon aquarium has enough space for a single specimen, only if they're accepting prepared foods. They don't eat. Copepods in the wild are all they eat. Therefore, it is my recommendation that the minimum sized tank for these beautiful fish be no less than a well established 75 gallon tank with plenty of copepods. This way, you'd never have to feed them. They will live off available copepod populations without wiping them out.

With some time and a lot of effort, mandarin fish can be trained to accept prepared foods, even pellets.You'll need live adult artemia to accomplish this task. They are receptive to live brine shrimp so getting them to eat it is a task that will take care of itself. Next, you're going to mix in some frozen brine shrimp with the live ones during feeding. Once they begin eating frozen brine shrimp you can breathe a sigh of relief, but its not over yet. We need to slowly get them to accept a more nutritious food like mysis shrimp.

As before, introduce some mysis shrimp with the frozen brine shrimp when you feed them. If you can get them on a frozen mysis shrimp diet, you've completed the task. Expand to other foods like a good pellet and krill.

But wait, there's another problem you will likely face with mandarin dragonets. They are extremely slow eaters. It cannot compete with other tank mates for food, its that slow. There are three ways to solve this problem. You could feed a lot more, thereby ensuring some food will be left for the mandarin and in the process, foul up your tank. Or, you can use a pipette to spot feed your mandarin dragonet. Lastly, you can find a plastic soft drink bottle that has a hole only the mandarin can fit through and put some foods there.

Its up to you to choose one or all of these methods.

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The Golden Angelfish (centropyge Aurantia) is a stunning dwarf angelfish that commands a high price and is fairly difficult to find. The golden angelfish is a difficult angel to keep alive and should only be attempted by those that can properly see to its needs. If you're looking for an easier dwarf angel to keep like the flame angel (centropyge loriculus), the its best you stop reading because the golden angel is normally listed under "experts only". If you still want to try a golden angelfish then read on.

The golden angelfish is a stunning red/bronze all over its body with vertical stripes on its sides. They are collected from Palau, New Guinea and especially around Indonesia where they are most common.

It is a deep water species that is found living at depths as deep as 180 feet. They are priced from the low $100's and aren't all that common on the market. They are usually sold quickly once they're for sale. This is a deep water angelfish so look for any swim bladder damage. It should not have any difficulty maintaining buoyancy and it definitely shouldn't be tilting inexplicably.

Like most of its deep water brethren, the golden angelfish is a painfully shy fish that does not do well in tanks with too much activity or when housed with very aggressive tank mates. It is a passive dwarf angelfish, but that still does not mean it will get along with conspecifics. Two golden angels will fight in an aquarium.

The golden angelfish needs large tanks with plenty of live rock to do well. Provide plenty of shaded areas and caves for shelter. It spends most of its time within shaded areas and is rarely seen out of such areas at all. A 75 gallon established marine aquarium should be the absolute lower limit for this dwarf angelfish. Go for a 150 gallon or larger tank. It must be given time to adapt to our aquarium lights since there is very little light in its habitat.

This is one area where things get pretty tough. It is very difficult to feed a golden angelfish simply because it is so shy. It is difficult to feed what you cannot see. If you cannot get them to accept prepared foods, they will feed off any live rock in the tank.This is the reason i recommended large established aquariums with plenty of live rock. Without enough live rock to feed on they will eventually perish.

This next part assumes it is accepting prepared foods :-

All dwarf angelfish are grazers in the wild. They constantly scan the rock for food items throughout the day, much like surgeonfish. Foods eaten include tiny crustaceans, algae and sometimes even detritus.

In a saltwater aquarium they should be given a balanced diet. A wide range of foods should be given, variety is important. Never feed them a specific type of food for too long. Although there are some hobbyists that feed them new life spectrum pellets for prolonged periods of time with no ill effects. They were all very healthy in fact.

They should be fed a frozen food that has both meat and algae (Formula One, Formula Two), algae and nori sheets as well as a pellet from a reputable brand like New Life Spectrum.

A very good food for dwarf angels is the Pygmy Angel Formula, produced by Ocean Nutrition. In an effort to provide a balanced and nutritious diet, a wide variety of ingredients are used such as kelp, shrimp, vitamins and trace minerals, krill, squid, algae and many others. All these ingredients are mixed up, frozen, then formed into cubes. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula is only available in frozen form.

Personally, i think brine shrimp should never be fed as they don't offer much nutritionally. Frozen adult brine shrimps contain mostly roughage, which is nothing more than fiber. They can fiber just fine from krill or mysis shrimp, both superior foods.

Should you insist on feeding your dwarf angelfish brine shrimp, choose a type that has been enriched beforehand. Enriched brine shrimp are simply artemia that were stuffed with a nutritious food (like spirulina) and then frozen. They are used as vessels housing nutrition.

Newly hatched brine shrimp are a good food, as long as their yolk sacs are not too depleted. Once their yolk sacs are depleted they turn into garbage again.

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Holacanthus Ciliaris, the queen angelfish, is among the three most recognizable angelfish in the marine aquarium hobby. The other two being the French Angelfish (Pomacanthus Paru) and the emperor angelfish (Pomacanthus Imperator). As with the flame angelfish it is the most popular species in the genus Holacanthus. The queen angelfish is one of the largest angels in the family Pomacanthidae.

They are found in the wild throughout the Caribbean Sea, Brazil, up to Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. It is very closely related to Holacanthus Bermudensis (Blue Angelfish) and they look completely alike to the untrained eye. Both of them have been known to interbreed in the wild. Their offspring have also been known as Holacanthus Townsendi. It should be noted that Holacanthus Townsendi is not recognized as a valid species within the genus. Thankfully, telling the two apart is an easy enough task, queen angels have a blue crown on their heads, that crown is missing on blue angels.

Like all large angelfish, the juvenile form of the queen angelfish is colored very differently from adults. Juveniles have blue and yellow vertical streaks on their bodies. These bars will slowly disappear as they grow. Adults are a beautiful iridescent blue and yellow throughout their bodies.

In the wild, juvenile queens take on an interesting role. Like the cleaner wrasse, they act as "cleaners". Cleaners pick off any parasites present on other larger fish.

Not a cheap fish, adult queen angels (show quality) can fetch upwards of $200 while juveniles specimens can be had for $80-$90.

Larger angels such as the queen have a reputation for being bullies in captivity. While it is mainly peaceful with other species of fish, they are usually hostile towards conspecifics. It is very hostile towards other queen angelfish. Or for that matter, towards blue angels. One queen angelfish per tank is the general rule.

This angelfish reaches lengths of up to 18 inches in the wild. One and a half feet!. However, they rarely achieve such lengths with a maximum size of 12 to 13 inches in captivity.

An aquarium no smaller than 150 gallons should be used to house a queen angelfish. As with all larger marine fish, a bigger tank is a better tank. Ensure your rock scape in the aquarium allows for ample swimming space. Do not bo fooled into buying smaller juveniles for a 50 gallon aquarium. They quickly outgrow such small confines, leaving you with the headache of finding a larger tank or selling it.

The queen angelfish is not reef safe, it can eat corals or at least nip on them until they eventually perish. Some hobbyists have managed to keep them in reef aquariums but generally they are more suited to large fish only marine aquariums.

They feed on tunicates,sponges, corals, algae and plankton in the wild. Housing them in a reef aquarium where they are surrounded by corals is not a good idea. They can make short work of your expensive corals. Variety is key, offer both meaty and algae based foods. A pretty good to offer is Formula Two, containing a blend of seafood and an extra amount of algae. It is available in pellet, flake or frozen cube form.

Ocean Nutrition produces By far the best foods for any large angel, Angel Formula. Specifically designed for large angelfish, they contain foods they normally eat in the wild like algae, seafood and marine sponges. Angel Formula only comes in frozen cubes i believe.

Make sure you buy the plain, unflavoured/unspiced version if you're buying nori from the supermarket. Try to get raw nori if possible. You'll need a clip to attach the nori, once thats done simply stick the clip to the side of the tank.

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The Purple Tang (Zebrasoma Xanthurum) is another surgeonfish that enjoys some popularity among those looking for uncommon surgeonfish. They are exact copies of the yellow tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens) except for two differences, they are purple and they are aggressive. Their bodies are a deep purple while their pectoral and tail fins are yellow. Their purple colors will darken with age.

Purple tangs are mainly collected from the Red Sea and rarely from Sri Lanka. They retail for a lot more than Yellow Tangs do. Large purple tangs can cost as much as $200 per specimen while you should expect to pay between $80 to $90 for juveniles.

These fishes are one of the more aggressive tangs, similar to the Sohal Tang that are also found in the same area. They are very aggressive towards other purple tangs and members of the genus Zebrasoma. Put them in to aquarium at the same if you wish for more than one purple tang.

They reach 8 inches in captivity despite growing up to 10 inches in the wild. They need large amounts of swimming space. A tank no smaller than a 100 gallon is appropriate.

Great news for those with corals, they are completely reef safe. They are algae eaters in the wild so ensure a large part of their diet in captivity has enough algae.

While they're herbivores in the wild, they will consume a wide variety of foods in captivity. Krill, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, pellets, they take them all.

Algae sheets like nori are a great algae to feed all herbivorous fish. Price will vary depending on the brand you choose. Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies may be a little too pricey for some. Its good stuff though. They come in flake form too, making feedings very convenient.

Most nori sheets are produced for human consumption, primarily as sushi wrappers. Prices vary here as well, some are cheap, some are expensive depending on quality.

You'll need to secure the nori to a clip. You could DIY a clip yourself and spend a couple of bucks on a commercial type. Some people fold the sheets before clipping while others just clip it as is. Use the suction cup to attach it to your aquarium and you're done, you can enjoy the show.

Formula Two is a good quality algae based mix for herbivores. It has an extra amount of algae in it along with a good mix of seafood, trace minerals, vitamins and more. It comes in 3 forms, frozen cube, flake or pellet.

The best flake for surgeonfish are those produced by two little fishes, Sea Veggie mixed flakes, Formula Two comes in second. It you're looking a great all rounder with balanced ingredients then you can't go wrong with New Life Spectrum pellets.

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The royal gramma (Gramma Loreto), along with the percula clownfish (percula and ocellaris), flame angel (Centropyge Loriculus), yellow tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens) and the blue tang (Paracanthurus Hepatus) make up the five most recognizable fishes in the marine aquarium hobby. It is commonly called the fairy basslet as well.

The royal gramma is brilliantly colored. Its front half is a rich blueish-purple while the rest of its body is a bright yellow mixed in with some orange. It has a thin dark stripe that runs from its snout through its eyes.There is also a single black spot at the front of its dorsal fin.

They are commonly fond throughout the Caribbean Sea. They retail for as little as $15 dollars and are disease resistant and hardy. A winning combination. Always available, cheap, beautiful and easily kept in a home aquarium. It shares very similar colors with the bicolor dottyback Pseudochromis Bicolor). Fortunately, they are easily distinguishable. Only the royal gramma has a black streak running through its eyes.

The royal gramma is a good candidate for just about any aquarium. They are peaceful provided they have a small territory of their own. I have personally kept the royal gramma with clownfish, dwarf angels, large angels, gobies, damsels and dottybacks and have found that it does well with all of them. Again, only if they have their own territory. If any fish attempts to enter its domain however, there will be trouble.

In the wild, royal grammas have reached lengths nearing 4 inches. Such lengths are usually not common in captivity, expect your specimen to reach a maximum of 3 inches. Royal grammas have been successfully kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons. Minimum tank size should be at least 20 gallons since they will eventually attain a length of 3 inches.

Royal grammas are carnivores in the wild, eating copepods and plankton. Your corals are safe with them as they are reef safe. Offer them a variety of meaty foods. Frozen foods such as Krill, Mysis shrimp and Prime Reef (A good blend of raw seafood) are all great choices. They normally begin eating very quickly after introduction.

Royal grammas have been bred in captivity They are a nest building fish, utilizing macroalgae as for their spawning site (usually a cave). The male tries to lure the female into its newly built spawning site by quivering and flaring its fins. Assuming the female is receptive, they will begin mating in the males cave. Their larvae accept rotifers and eventually baby brine shrimp without hesitation.

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Commonly available, the Coral Beauty Angel is a much cheaper dwarf angel than much of its cousins. $15 to $20 should net you this fish just about anywhere. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame Angel though), the combination of flame like coloration on a deep blue body plus the price is bound to make this angel a popular fish among hobbyists.

Two spined angelfish and Dusky angelfish are two names the coral beauty also goes by. Distributed throughout the Indo-pacific, this is a heavily collected dwarf angel.

Those collected from the Philippines have been known to be caught with the use of cyanide. Coral beauty angelfish from the Philippines tend to have high mortality rates, no surprises there. When cyanide is used during collection, fishes tend to have brighter than normal colors, a term known as "goosed". They may do fine for a month and then suddenly perish inexplicably.

The coral beauty angel can reach up to 4 inches in the wild so in the interest of allowing it room to breathe i'd suggest at least a 50 gallon. A 75 gallon or larger tank is of course, recommended.

They are not as aggressive as its other cousins and generally ignores species from outside its genus. But it is aggressive towards other dwarf angels and the same species so avoid putting two coral beauty angelfish in the a small tank. If you want two coral beauty angels then ensure you have a large tank or if you're lucky you can actually buy one. Unlikely though. Fights between marine angelfish are pretty rough so expect torn fins.

Dwarf angelfish are all grazers in the wild. Like surgeonfish, they scan the rock throughout the day for food. They consume algae, tiny crustaceans and sometimes even detritus.

They should be given a balanced diet in a saltwater aquarium. They should be fed a wide range of foods for variety. They should never be fed a single type of food for too long. Although i've heard of hobbyists feeding them new life spectrum pellets for prolonged periods of time with no ill effects. They seemed very healthy in fact.

They should be offered a good pellet brand like New Life Spectrum, a balanced frozen food with both meat and algae (Formula two, Mysis Shrimp, Krill) and algae/nori sheets if possible.

Ocean Nutrition produces the perfect food for dwarf angels, Pygmy Angel Formula. Ingredients such as kelp, krill, squid,squid, vitamins and minerals and much more are used in this frozen food. All these ingredients are mixed up, frozen, then formed into cubes. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula does not come in flake form.

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The Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus Splendidus) are one of the most breathtaking fishes found in the hobby. Blue, green and orange lines and patches are intricately painted onto this spectacular fish. They commonly go by the name, mandarin goby, despite not being a true goby at all. The mandarin dragonet is its true name.

The mandarin dragonet is heavily collected from the Indo-Pacific. Despite its popularity, they do very poorly in captivity. I will touch on this later.

As far as temperament goes, they are very peaceful fish. They are aggressive only towards other members of the genus such as the scooter dragonets. If you're interested in a pair of mandarin dragonets, buy a female and a male (elongated first dorsal spine) and introduce them together in the tank.

Fully grown mandarins come in a about 4 inches in length. A 30 gallon aquarium has enough space for a single specimen, only if you can get them to eat. Getting them to eat prepared foods is a real challenge. Copepods in the wild are all they eat. Therefore, they need a tank full of live copepods, something like a 75 gallon established aquarium. In an aquarium that large, you'd never have to feed them. The copepod populations in the tank will sustain them.

If you don't have a tank that large but are still keen on a mandarin fish then you need to train it to eat prepared foods.You'll need live adult artemia to accomplish this task. They eat live brine shrimp with ease, just put in the artemia. Next, introduce some frozen artemia with the live ones during your next feeding. Once they start taking frozen artemia the task is half done. You need to get them on something nutritious like mysis shrimp, brine shrimp is junk food.

As before, slowly introduce some mysis in with the frozen artemia. The deed is done once they start taking mysis shrimp. You should try and get them other foods such as a good pellet and krill.

But wait, thats just one problem out of the way. They are painfully slow feeders. Every single one of their tank mates will eat twice as fast as a mandarin. This problem can be solved in three simple ways. You could foul up your aquarium by feeding so much food that there's bound to be some the mandarin can eat. Or, you can spot feed it with the use of a pipette. Lastly, you can find a bottle with an entrance only big enough for the mandarin and stuff some food in there.

All three options can work, but its up to you to choose one.

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The most endearing member of the genus Centropyge (Dwarf angelfish family). Centropyge argi is merely a dwarf version of regular dwarf angelfish. They are sold in sizes ranging from an inch to 3 inches. At 3 inches, this angelfish is a fully grown adult and will not get any larger.

They are also known as Cherub Angelfish, pygmy angelfish and the Atlantic pygmy angelfish. They possess a yellow face and a deep royal blue throughout their bodies with electric blue linings on their dorsal and anal fins.

They hail from the Caribbean ocean, from South America, Florida and the Gulf of Mexico. Price from $20 to $30 USD per specimen, they are a very affordable dwarf angelfish for any marine aquarium big or small. They are commonly offered on the market, and their price reflects that fact.

Despite their size they are a feisty little ball of aggression and can usually defend themselves against larger more aggressive fishes, but they must have space to retreat and hide. Do not add two cherub angelfish into a small tank, one of them will most likely sustain serious injuries. I've heard of cherub angelfish harassing a smaller one in a 30 gallon tank until they die. If you want a pair of them, you have two options. Buy a mated pair or introduce both of them together (Only in a large tank) and hope they form a pair eventually.

Due to their small size the cherub angelfish can actually be housed in aquariums as small as 20 gallons. This make centropyge argi uniquely qualified for those that want an angelfish, but lack an aquarium large enough for one. Of course it is recommended that you get the biggest tank you can for your fish. But smaller specimens under 1.5 inches should do fine in a 20 gallon.

Centropyge argi are grazers in their natural habitat. Throughout the day they scan the rock for food, much like surgeonfish. They consume algae, tiny crustaceans and sometimes even detritus.

A balanced diet should be given in a saltwater aquarium. Variety is important, feed them foods from a wide range of food groups. They should never be fed a single type of food for too long. Although there have been hobbyists that have fed them new life spectrum for long periods of time with no ill effects. It seemed like they were doing great in fact. They should be offered nori/algae sheets in addition to a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two) and a good pellet like those produced by New Life Spectrum.

The Pygmy Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition is just about the perfect food for dwarf angels. In an effort to provide a balanced and nutritious diet, a wide variety of ingredients are used such as kelp, shrimp, vitamins and trace minerals, krill, squid, algae and many others. Prior to freezing, the cubes are mixed with these ingredients. Unfortunately there is only one form of Pygmy Angel Formula, frozen cubes.

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  • Centropyge Bispinosus : Care and Requirements of the Coral Beauty by Gabriela Desouyez Commonly available, the Coral Beauty Angel is a much cheaper dwarf angel than much of its cousins. $15 to $20 should net you this fish just about anywhere. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame Angel though), the combination of flame like coloration......
  • The Coral Beauty : Care and Requirements of the popular Centropyge Bispinosus by Gabriela Desouyez The Coral Beauty (Centropyge Bispinosus) is a commonly available marine angelfish that sits firmly within the lower price range bracket unlike many of its cousins. $15 to $20 should net you this fish just about anywhere. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame......
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The french angelfish (Pomacanthus Paru) is among the three most popular angelfish in the marine aquarium hobby. The Emperor Angelfish and the Queen Angelfish make up the other two.

It is closely related to the Gray Angelfish (Pomacanthus Arcuatus) and to the untrained eye they are very similar in appearance. Telling them apart is easy as adult French Angelfish have flecks off yellow on their scales while Gray angelfish do not. They are completely alike as juveniles, except for one minor detail. Juvenile Queen angelfish have tail fins that are rounded while juvenile gray angelfish tail fins that are straighter.This trait is present on adult french and gray angels as well.

The juvenile form of the french is also one of the most beautiful among its cousins. A full jet black with bright yellow vertical bars. Juveniles take on the roles of cleanerfish in the wild, actively picking off parasites off larger fish.

They commonly sighted by divers around the Caribbean Sea. Other popular angelfishes from that area include the queen, blue and gray angelfishes.

This is an expensive fish, small specimens usually retail for $80-$90 USD with large adults (Show quality)costing $200 and upwards.

Like its larger cousins, the French Angelfish can be aggressive towards other members of the pomacanthidae (Marine angelfish) family. Expect a lot of fighting/torn fins if you put two french angelfish together in a marine aquarium.

Despite this, french angelfish are normally friendly towards their keepers. It is normally peaceful with other species of fish. Clownfish, small wrasses and dottybacks are pretty much left alone.

At 16 inches the French angelfish is a whopper! If you plan on keeping one long-term you should house one in a marine aquarium no less than 150 gallons. Of course it always helps to aim higher, something like a 300 gallon is perfect.

Many hobbyists are tricked into getting a small juvenile only to have it outgrow their aquariums in a year.

So don't be fooled by their small sizes, juveniles grow very quickly. French angelfish are usually kept in large community aquariums with very "open" rock scapes. This is to ensure they get adequate swimming room. Hobbyists with a reef aquarium generally avoid keeping the french angelfish, we find out why in the next section.

Like all larger angelfish, the French Angelfish is not reef safe. You may come across some reef tanks with french angels but they're more suited to fish-only aquariums.

In the wild, they feed on sponges, corals, algae and polyps. Most people avoid keeping them in their reef aquariums as they can make short work of their prized corals. A source of algae like nori/seaweed should be offered along with meaty foods like krill and mysis shrimp.

Offer them a good pellet from a reputable brand like New Life Spectrum as well. A pretty good and balanced food to offer would be formula two, it contains seafood and extra algae for herbivorous fishes. Available in, flake, pellet or frozen cube form.

The best food for a french angelfish is Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition. Designed to cater to the specific needs of large angelfish, it contains a mix of algae, fresh seafood, vitamins and most importantly, marine sponges. Unfortunately, Angel Formula is only available in frozen cubes.

A bit more about seaweed and nori. You can choose to either purchase branded seaweed sheets from companies catering to herbivorous fish or you can run down to your local supermarket and get some there. Prices vary with market nori, they're either expensive or cheap depending on the brand.

Make sure you buy the plain, unflavoured/unspiced version. If available, raw nori is an excellent offering. Get a clip for your nori and stick it on the side of the aquarium glass.

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Commonly available, the Coral Beauty Angel is a much cheaper dwarf angel than much of its cousins. $15 to $20 should net you this fish just about anywhere. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame Angel though), the combination of flame like coloration on a deep blue body plus the price is bound to make this angel a popular fish among hobbyists.

They also go by the names Two-Spined angelfish and Dusky angelfish. Distributed throughout the Indo-pacific, this is a heavily collected dwarf angel.

Some of them have been known to have been caught with the use of cyanide, particularly those from the Philippines. Specimens collected from the Philippines tend to poorly in captivity, no surprises there. When cyanide is used during collection, fishes tend to have brighter than normal colors, a term known as "goosed". They've been known to die suddenly after doing alright for a few weeks.

An aquarium no smaller than a 50 gallons should be used to house a coral beauty. Aquariums 75 gallons and up are recommended.

They are not as aggressive as its other cousins and generally ignores species from outside its genus. Avoid putting two coral beauty angelfish a small tank as they are aggressive towards members of the same genus. If you want two coral beauty angels then ensure you have a large tank or if you're lucky you can actually buy one. Not likely though. Torn fins are a common occurrence between two fighting dwarf angelfish.

In the wild, dwarf angelfish are all grazers. Like surgeonfish, they scan the rock throughout the day for food. They feed on small crustaceans, algae of various types and sometimes even detritus.

A balanced diet should be given in a saltwater aquarium. Foods from many food groups should be given for variety. Never feed them a specific type of food for too long. Although there are some hobbyists that feed them new life spectrum pellets for prolonged periods of time with no ill effects. They were all very healthy in fact.

A good pellet like those by New Life Spectrum should be offered along with algae/nori sheets plus a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two).

Ocean Nutrition produces the perfect food for dwarf angels, Pygmy Angel Formula. It closely resembles their natural diet in the wild with a whole slew of ingredients that include krill, algae, kelp, shrimp, squid, vitamins and trace minerals plus many others. The ingredients mentioned are all added prior to freezing. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula is only available in frozen form.

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Another popular clown fish in the Pomacanthidae family besides Percula Clownfish (amphiprion percula) and Ocellaris Clownfish(amphiprion ocellaris), the [Maroon Clownfish. They are found throughout South East Asia and Australia to a lesser extent. To many, Maroon clownfish are the most beautiful among all clownfish.

They possess 3 white stripes like Nemo, except their bodies are entirely red. However, their white stripes are thinner than Percula's. Also common is a gold striped variety.

Their most common name besides the maroon clownfish is the spine cheek anemonefish, so called because of a small spine found on their cheeks. They are called anemonefish because of the symbiotic relationship they have with anemones. They have figured out how to escape the anemones powerful sting, it is speculated that clownfish produce a mucus that renders them invisible to the anemone. In the wild Maroon clownfish are always found nestled within their host anemones, however, these anemones are not needed in the aquarium.

Despite heavy collection, their prices are usually higher than that of ocellaris or percula clownfish. Juveniles retail for about $25 while large adults can fetch up to $40. Tank-Bred maroon clownfish usually fetch a few dollars more. Never go with wild caught specimens as tank-bred ones are generally hardier and better suited to the aquarium.

The maroon clownfish is considered by many to be the most aggressive clownfish in the hobby. They are aggressive towards their cousins, the clownfish and damselfish. They can even show aggression to humans as they are also a very territorial clownfish.

And it doesn't end with their aggression, they are the largest species within the clownfish family. They can reach a length of 6 inches in captivity.

Captive maroon clownfishes are very easy to feed because they will eat just about anything. While they are omnivores in the wild, they will eat both algae and meaty foods in an aquarium. They should be fed a wide variety of foods. Prime reef, Formula One and Formula two are some good dry foods to offer. Formula two is a seafood mix with an added amount of algae thrown into it while Prime reef is mostly meaty.

The best pellet food on the market are those made by New Life Spectrum. Feed them some frozen mysis shrimp and krill occasionally.

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The Mandarin Goby (Synchiropus Splendidus) is quite simply one of the most breathtaking marine fishes ever to hit the hobby. Its entire body is made up of blue, orange and green alternating line. They commonly go by the name, mandarin goby, despite not being a true goby at all. Its seldom called true name, is the mandarin dragonet.

This fish is heavily collected mainly from the Indo-Pacific. Despite its common appearance at marine pet stores all over the world, it has an abysmal survival rate in our aquariums. We will see why later on.

As far as temperament goes, they are very peaceful fish. They can be hostile towards members of the same genus such as its close cousin, the psychedelic dragonet. If you're interested in a pair of mandarin dragonets, look for a mandarin with an elongated first spine (a male) and look for one without (a female) and put them together.

Fully grown mandarins come in a about 4 inches in length. A 30 gallon aquarium has enough space for a single specimen, only if they're accepting prepared foods. They don't eat. This is because they only feed on live copepods. Therefore, they need a tank full of live copepods, something like a 75 gallon established aquarium. In an aquarium that large, you'd never have to feed them. They will live off available copepod populations without wiping them out.

With some time and a lot of effort, mandarin fish can be trained to accept prepared foods, even pellets.First, you need adult live brine shrimp. They are receptive to live brine shrimp so getting them to eat it is a task that will take care of itself. Next, you're going to mix in some frozen brine shrimp with the live ones during feeding. If they start taking frozen brine, you're almost home free. Since brine shrimp is nutritionally poor, we need to get to feed on something like mysis shrimp or krill.

As before, introduce some mysis shrimp with the frozen brine shrimp when you feed them. If you can get them on a frozen mysis shrimp diet, you've completed the task. Offer them some krill and a good pellet after that.

But wait, thats just one problem out of the way. They are painfully slow feeders. Every single one of their tank mates will eat twice as fast as a mandarin. There are three ways to solve this problem. You could blast food into the tank to ensure the mandarin gets some. Or, you can spot feed it with the use of a pipette. Lastly, you can find a bottle with an entrance only big enough for the mandarin and stuff some food in there.

All three options can work, but its up to you to choose one.

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One of the more popular surgeonfish, the Powder Blue Tang (Acanthurus Leucosternon) is a common offering in the hobby. It has a dark blue face, a yellow dorsal fin and a light blue body. They are commonly seen from the Maldive's all the way through to Sri Lanka.

Pricier than the blue tang (Paracanthurus Hepatus)or even the yellow tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens), juveniles retail for about $50 to $60 while larger specimens go for $100 to $120.

While fishes from outside the surgeonfish family are usually safe, members within the same genus are not. In the wild, Powder Blue Tangs are either found alone or with a shoal. If you're aiming for more than one powder blue tang, its important to introduce them all together at the same time, thereby limiting aggression.

A moderately big surgeonfish, they usually grow up to 8 inches in captivity. Nothing smaller than a 100 gallons should be used to house the powder blue tang.

They are reef safe, making them great choices for large reef aquariums.

Despite the fact that they're primarily herbivores in the wild, they are open to just about anything offered once acclimated. Krill, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, pellets, they take them all.

A good form of algae to feed tangs would be nori sheets. Price will vary depending on the brand you choose. Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies may be a little too pricey for some. Good quality stuff though. They're also available as flakes, which is very convenient since there's very little work involved during feeding.

Thankfully there are many other brands that produce nori primarily for human consumption. High quality sheets can cost quite a bit while the regular stuff is very affordable.

A clip is normally used to secure the nori for feeding. Commercial clips are cheap, but you could probably DIY one yourself with some household items. The sheets are fed as is or they're folded and cut beforehand. Secure the nori to your algae clip and attach it to the side of the aquarium.

Ocean Nutrition produces another good quality food, Formula Two. It has an extra amount of algae in it along with a good mix of seafood, trace minerals, vitamins and more. It is available as a flake food, pellet or frozen cube.

The best flake food for the yellow tang would be Sea Veggie mixed flakes followed by formula two flakes. A great all-rounder with a good balance of ingredients, New Life Spectrum comes highly recommended as well.

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The stunning Flame Angelfish is the most popular dwarf angelfish, more popular than even the Coral Beauty Angelfish.

Like the queen angelfish (holacanthus ciliaris), the flame angel is one of those fishes that every wanted or had at one point in the hobby.Its common name is the flame angelfish, so named because it is colored a bright red-orange with vertical black lines down its body. Their dorsal and anal fins are a dark blue/purple.

The flame angel is a little on the high side in terms of price so expect to pay between $40 and $50 US dollars for a specimen. While some may deem it expensive, their price is nothing compared to what they'd pay for rare species like the Japanese pygmy angelfish.

While flame angelfish are commonly thought to come from the waters off Hawaii, they are actually collected around Christmas Island and the Marshall Islands.

As with all members of the genus centropyge this angelfish can be aggressive towards other tank mates. They save their highest levels of hostility for members of the same family.

The flame angelfish should be kept in an aquarium no less than 50 gallons. Larger aquariums like 75 gallons and above are recommended.

They require caves and holes to dart in and out off so ensure your rock scape is set up accordingly.

The flame angelfish may nip on corals in a reef aquarium. This may happen immediately or after a few months. Some hobbyists have had flame angels that never touched a coral for ages, only for them to begin nipping suddenly.

In the wild, dwarf angelfish are all grazers. Like surgeonfish, they scan the rock throughout the day for food. They feed on small crustaceans, algae of various types and sometimes even detritus.

They should be given a balanced diet in a saltwater aquarium. They should be fed a wide range of foods for variety. Feeding them a specific food for too long can be detrimental to their health. Although there have been hobbyists that have fed them new life spectrum for long periods of time with no ill effects. They were all very healthy in fact.

They should be offered a good pellet brand like New Life Spectrum, a balanced frozen food with both meat and algae (Formula two, Mysis Shrimp, Krill) and algae/nori sheets if possible.

The Pygmy Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition is just about the perfect food for dwarf angels. In an effort to provide a balanced and nutritious diet, a wide variety of ingredients are used such as kelp, shrimp, vitamins and trace minerals, krill, squid, algae and many others. The cubes are frozen after these ingredients have been mixed into it. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula does not come in flake form.

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  • French Angelfish : Care And requirements Of Pomacanthus Paru by Gabriela Desouyez The french angelfish (Pomacanthus Paru) is among the three most popular angelfish in the marine aquarium hobby. The Emperor Angelfish and the Queen Angelfish make up the other two. Its closets relative is the gray angel, as such, they look completely alike to the untrained eye. Differentiating......
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The Sohal Tang (Acanthurus Sohal) is one of the most beautiful tangs in the family. Black lines streak across its white/cream body while its caudal and pectoral fins are yellow.

It is also known as the majestic tang, Arabian tang and the zebra tang.

They are collected from the Red Sea and near Sri Lanka. Among hobbyists the sohal tang is highly prized, it is a pricey fish. Smaller sohals go for between $110 to $150 while adults fetch more than $200. Very large show quality sohal tangs can fetch up to $350.

Like their cousins they are susceptible to lateral line erosion and marine ich so exercise care when buying one.

Sohal tangs are aggressive fish. Nothing really frightens this tang. Not even scuba divers are exempt from their aggressive behavior.

Assuming everyone knows their place, sohal tangs can get along with other species of fish. However, it is aggressive towards other tangs. Members of the genus acanthurus (Achilles Tang, Powder Blue Tang) are particularly susceptible to aggression. Lastly, putting two sohals into a small tank is sure to produce a dead or severely injured fish.

Sohal tangs are commonly seen living alone in the wild, unlike most of their cousins. Perhaps this has something to do with their heightened levels of aggression.

They are very hardy but like most tangs they are prone to parasite attacks (ich) and lateral line erosion.

Topping out at 18 inches, the sohal tang isn't just bad to the bone, its huge. Thankfully, it only reaches lengths of up to 10 to 11 inches in captivity. The minimum size tank for this beast is 100 gallons. They need a lot of space to swim so the bigger the better.

These fishes are completely reef safe. As they are grazers in the wild, a large part of their diet should be algae based foods.

While they're herbivores in the wild, they will consume a wide variety of foods in captivity. They'll take pellets, krill, and mysis shrimp, no problem.

We should ensure that a large part of their diet is algae based, since they eat so much of it in the wild.

Algae sheets like nori are a great algae to feed all herbivorous fish.Depending on the brand, prices vary greatly. Some people may find Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies to cost a little too much. They produce good algae sheets though. They're also available as flakes, which is very convenient since there's very little work involved during feeding.

Most nori sheets are produced for human consumption, primariy as sushi wrappers. High quality sheets can cost quite a bit while the regular stuff is very affordable.

You'll need to secure the nori to a clip. Commercial clips are cheap, but you could probably DIY one yourself with some household items. The sheets are fed as is or they're folded and cut beforehand. Once the nori is secured, stick the clip to the side of the tank, sit back, and enjoy the show.

Another good food to feed herbivores are Formula Two by Ocean Nutrition. It has an extra amount of algae in it along with a good mix of seafood, trace minerals, vitamins and more. It is available as a flake food, pellet or frozen cube.

The best flake for surgeonfish are those produced by two little fishes, Sea Veggie mixed flakes, Formula Two comes in second. A great all-rounder with a good balance of ingredients, New Life Spectrum comes highly recommended as well.

Never feed your tangs lettuce. You'll normally see this happening at pet stores that are trying to save a few bucks. Nutritionally, lettuce offers very little and should not have a place in this hobby.

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The Multicolor angelfish (Centropyge Multicolor) is a deep water angel that live at depths from 50 to 200+ feet in the wild. Probably named after the variety of colors present on its body. Its body is white while its chest has a patch mixed with yellow, orange and red. Its dorsal and anal fins are a dark blue while its tail is yellow. The multicolor angel's most striking feature is its crown, a small patch of neon blue and purple lines that is also found on very rare Centropyge Nahackyi.

Like the flame angelfish (Centropyge Loriculus), it is collected from the Marshall Islands, Cook Islands and Fiji, not Hawaii as is commonly thought.

Due to the fact that they hail from deeper depths, they are priced on the high side. They retail for about $120. Some deep water dwarf angelfish tend to fare poorly in captivity, not so for the multicolor angelfish. It is a very hardy fish once fully acclimated.

Swim bladder damage during collection is not uncommon. If they are brought up too fast their swim bladder will start to expand, collectors solve the problem by poking it with a needle. Severe damage to the swim bladder will occur if this procedure is done incorrectly. Signs of a damaged swim bladder include :-

* Inability to maintain a leveled buoyancy * Tilting left, right, up or down inexplicably

Once a multicolor angel settles into your marine aquarium and starts staking out its territory it will become a bully. The multicolor angel along with the Brazilian flameback angel are two of the most aggressive marine angels i have ever kept.

Expect some hostility towards smaller tank mates. Nothing extreme, just a quick reminder of who's boss around the tank. You must give the rest of your fishes enough space.

I do not recommend putting two multicolor angels together. If you insist on having a pair, either buy a mated pair (good luck) or buy two multicolors (One large, one small) and introduce them together at the same time. Do not attempt this in aquariums smaller than 75 gallons.

The multicolor angelfish is considered a medium sized dwarf angelfish (Like the Coral Beauty Angelfish, Flame Angels). They are usually sold at sizes ranging from 2.5 to 4 inches. They should be housed in a saltwater aquarium no less than 50 gallons, a 75 gallon or larger tank is ideal.

There is not a lot of light at the depth its collected at so provide plenty of live rock for it to seek refuge. It must be given time to acclimate to captive lighting intensities. Once acclimated however, they are fearless.

Angelfish from the genus centropyge are all grazers in the wild. Like surgeonfish, they scan the rock throughout the day for food. They feed on small crustaceans, algae of various types and sometimes even detritus.

They should be given a balanced diet in a saltwater aquarium. Variety is important, feed them foods from a wide range of food groups. They should never be fed a single type of food for too long. Although there have been hobbyists that have fed them new life spectrum for long periods of time with no ill effects. It seemed like they were doing great in fact.

A good pellet like those by New life Spectrum should be offered along with algae/nori sheets plus a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two).

The perfect food for dwarf angels is the Pygmy Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition. Ingredients such as kelp, krill, squid,squid, vitamins and minerals and much more are used in this frozen food. The ingredients mentioned are all added prior to freezing. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula does not come in flake form.

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Written by Gabriela Desouyez using tags: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The Golden Angelfish (centropyge Aurantia) is a stunning dwarf angelfish that commands a high price and is fairly difficult to find. The golden angelfish is a difficult angel to keep alive and should only be attempted by those that can properly see to its needs. Normally listed under "experts only", if you're looking for a relatively hardy dwarf angel like the Flame Angelfish, stop reading. If you still want to try a golden angelfish then read on.

The golden angelfish is a stunning red/bronze all over its body with vertical stripes on its sides. They are collected from Palau, New Guinea and especially around Indonesia where they are most common.

They are a deep water species in the wild that can be found living at depths as deep as 180 feet. They cost around $80 to $100 USD and they are hard to find. Hobbyists usually snap them up quickly if any are for sale. This is a deep water angelfish so look for any swim bladder damage. The fish should be able to maintain a leveled buoyancy and should not be tilting inexplicably.

Like most of its deep water brethren, the golden angelfish is a painfully shy fish that does not do well in tanks with too much activity or when housed with very aggressive tank mates. Despite its passive nature, they do not get along with conspecifics. Two dwarf angelfish will fight in an aquarium.

The golden angelfish needs large tanks with plenty of live rock to do well. Provide plenty of shaded areas and caves for shelter. It spends most of its time within shaded areas and is rarely seen out of such areas at all. Nothing smaller than an established 75 gallon aquarium for the golden angelfish. Aim for 150 gallons or larger aquariums. Since there is very little light at the depths it lives at, it must be given time to properly adapt to aquarium lighting conditions.

This is one area where things get pretty tough. It is very difficult to feed a golden angelfish simply because it is so shy. You cannot feed what you cannot see. If you cannot get it to accept prepared foods, it will simply feed off your live rock.This is the reason i recommended large established aquariums with plenty of live rock. They will need enough live rock for food or suffer a slow starvation.

This next part assumes it is accepting prepared foods :-

In the wild, dwarf angelfish are all grazers. They constantly scan the rock for food items throughout the day, much like surgeonfish. They feed on detritus, tiny crustaceans and a wide variety of algae.

They should be given a balanced diet in a saltwater aquarium. They should be fed a wide range of foods for variety. Feeding them a specific food for too long can be detrimental to their health. Although there are some hobbyists that feed them new life spectrum pellets for prolonged periods of time with no ill effects. They were all very healthy in fact.

A good pellet like those by New ife Spectrum should be offered along with algae/nori sheets plus a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two).

A very good food for dwarf angels is the Pygmy Angel Formula, produced by Ocean Nutrition. Ingredients such as kelp, krill, squid,squid, vitamins and minerals and much more are used in this frozen food. All these ingredients are mixed up, frozen, then formed into cubes. Unfortunately Pygmy Angel Formula is only available in frozen form.

I don't like feeding brine shrimp as they don't offer much nutritionally. Frozen adult brine shrimp contain mostly roughage, which is nothing more than fiber. Foods that are far superior like krill or mysis shrimp also have fiber.

Should you insist on feeding your dwarf angelfish brine shrimp, choose a type that has been enriched beforehand. Enriched artemia that were fed a nutritious food prior to freezing are known as enriched brine shrimp. They are used as vessels housing nutrition.

Newly hatched brine shrimp are also quite nutritious, as long as their yolk sacs are still in place. They turn back into garbage once their yolk sacs have been used up.

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Written by Gabriela Desouyez using tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

The french angelfish (Pomacanthus Paru) is among the three most popular angelfish in the marine aquarium hobby. The Emperor Angelfish and the Queen Angelfish make up the other two.

Its closets relative is the gray angel, as such, they look completely alike to the untrained eye. Differentiating between the to is easy, adult french angels have yellow/gold flecks on their bodies while gray angels do not. As Juveniles they are completely alike except for one very minute difference. Juvenile Queen angelfish have tail fins that are rounded while juvenile gray angelfish tail fins that are straighter.This trait is also seen on adult french and gray angels.

The juvenile form of the french is also one of the most beautiful among its cousins. A full jet black with bright yellow vertical bars. Like other juveniles in the genus they are cleaners in the wild, actively picking off parasites off other larger fish.

They commonly sighted by divers around the Caribbean Sea. Other angelfish from that area include the gray, blue and queen angelfish.

Not a cheap fish, small juveniles go for $80 to $90 USD while larger adults can cost upwards of $200.

Like its larger cousins, the French Angelfish can be aggressive towards other members of the pomacanthidae (Marine angelfish) family. Expect a lot of fighting/torn fins if you put two french angelfish together in a marine aquarium.

Despite this, french angelfish are normally friendly towards their keepers. It is generally peaceful with species outside its own family. Dottybacks, clownfish and smaller wrasses are generally left alone.

At 16 inches the French angelfish is a whopper! If you plan on keeping one long-term you should house one in a marine aquarium no less than 150 gallons. It always helps to aim higher of course, a 300 gallon aquarium is a great choice.

Some hobbyists are tricked into buying a small juvenile french angel only to have it outgrow their small aquariums in a matter of months.

Juveniles grow very quickly, do not be fooled by their small sizes. French angels are commonly kept in large community aquariums with a very "open" rock scape. This is to ensure they have ample swimming space. Hobbyists with a reef aquarium generally avoid keeping the french angelfish, we find out why in the next section.

The french angelfish is not reef safe, like all its brethren. You may come across some reef tanks with french angels but they're more suited to fish-only aquariums.

In the wild, they feed on sponges, corals, algae and polyps. Most people avoid keeping them in their reef aquariums as they can make short work of their prized corals. A source of algae like nori/seaweed should be offered along with meaty foods like krill and mysis shrimp.

Try to get them on a good pellet like those from New Life Spectrum as well. A pretty good and balanced food to offer would be formula two, it contains seafood and extra algae for herbivorous fishes. Available in, flake, pellet or frozen cube form.

The best food for a french angelfish is Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition. Designed to cater to the specific needs of large angelfish, it contains a mix of algae, fresh seafood, vitamins and most importantly, marine sponges. Unfortunately, Angel Formula is only available in frozen cubes.

more about nori and seaweed. You can go to your local supermarket to get some or you can choose to purchase them from companies catering to herbivorous fish. Prices vary with market nori, they're either expensive or cheap depending on the brand.

Make sure you buy the plain, unflavoured/unspiced version. If available, raw nori is a great offering. Get a clip for your nori and stick it on the side of the aquarium glass.

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Written by Gabriela Desouyez using tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

This beauty known as the Achilles tang (Acanthurus Achilles) pops up in the trade from time to time. Dark chocolate colors its entire body while a single orange teardrop is present on its spine. White, orange and chocolate lines its tail. It goes by other names that include the red-tail surgeonfish and the achilles surgeonfish.

This highly prized tang is endemic to Hawaii. They get picked up very quickly as soon as they are for sale so finding one may prove difficult.

A very expensive fish, small specimens go for $100 or slightly more while adults can fetch up to $300 per fish. Very big show quality specimens can fetch even more, $400 and above.

Unfortunately, this fish doesn't do so well outside of its natural habitat. They seem to be more delicate than other tangs like the yellow tang (zebrasoma flavescens) or the Blue Tang (paracanthurus hepatus). And thats not the entire story, these tangs don't seem to feed prepared foods.

Like its brethren they are also prone to lateral line erosion, hole in the head disease and marine parasites.

Achilles tangs have been known to interbreed with goldrim tangs (acanthurus nigricans) in the wild. They're highly prized offspring rarely appear on the market and usually cost quite a bit.

An aggressive species, they can be very hostile to larger tank mates. Smaller species like gobies, damsels and dottybacks are usually left alone. They do not take too kindly to sharing tank space with other tangs and can be absolutely brutal towards other achilles tangs. As always, if you insist on keeping multiple tangs always introduce them at the same time and make sure your aquarium is large enough for them.

The Achilles tang reaches 9 inches in the wild, which translates into 7 inches in a aquarium. The minimum size tank for them should be a 100 gallons. Larger tanks are recommended as they require ample swimming room.

Getting these fishes to eat in captivity is challenging to say the least. Nevertheless, we should try our best.

Great news for those with corals, they are completely reef safe. In the wild they graze on algae throughout the day so their foods in captivity should reflect this.

Once acclimated, they accept a variety of foods other than algae. They will eat brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill and whatever else you offer.

We should ensure that a large part of their diet is algae based, since they eat so much of it in the wild.

Nori is a good form of algae to feed tangs.Depending on the brand, prices vary greatly. Some people may find Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies to cost a little too much. They produce good algae sheets though. They come in flake form too, making feedings very convenient.

Most nori sheets are produced for human consumption, primarily as sushi wrappers. Prices vary here as well, some are cheap, some are expensive depending on quality.

A clip is normally used to secure the nori for feeding. You can buy a commercial type of fashion one up yourself. The sheets are fed as is or they're folded and cut beforehand. Once the nori is secured, stick the clip to the side of the tank, sit back, and enjoy the show.

Ocean Nutrition produces another good quality food, Formula Two. Along with mixed sea food, vitamins and whatnot, there is an extra amount of algae added to the mix. It comes in 3 forms, frozen cube, flake or pellet.

The best flake food for the yellow tang would be Sea Veggie mixed flakes followed by formula two flakes. A great all-rounder with a good balance of ingredients, New Life Spectrum comes highly recommended as well.

Never feed your tangs lettuce. Pet stores that are trying to save a few bucks normally feed their tangs lettuce. Lettuce doesn't have a place in this hobby as nutritionally its rubbish.

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Written by Roman Veaila using tags: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Commonly available, the Coral Beauty Angel is a much cheaper dwarf angel than much of its cousins. They retail for $15 to $20 at most pet stores. It is very popular angel (not as popular as the Flame Angel though), the combination of flame like coloration on a deep blue body plus the price is bound to make this angel a popular fish among hobbyists.

They also go by the names Two-Spined angelfish and Dusky angelfish. These dwarf angelfish are collected heavily for the trade as they are common throughout the Indo-Pacific.

Some of them have been known to have been caught with the use of cyanide, particularly those from the Philippines. Specimens collected from the Philippines tend to poorly in captivity, no surprises there. Fish caught with cyanide tend to have "goosed" coloration, meaning brighter than usual colors. They may do fine for a month and then suddenly perish inexplicably.

The coral beauty angel can reach up to 4 inches in the wild so in the interest of allowing it room to breathe i'd suggest at least a 50 gallon. Aquariums 75 gallons and up are recommended.

They are not as aggressive as its other cousins and generally ignores species from outside its genus. But it is aggressive towards other dwarf angels and the same species so avoid putting two coral beauty angelfish in the a small tank. If you want two coral beauty angels then ensure you have a large tank or if you're lucky you can actually buy one. Not likely though. Torn fins are a common occurrence between two fighting dwarf angelfish.

All dwarf angelfish are grazers in the wild. Throughout the day they scan the rock for food, much like surgeonfish. They feed on detritus, tiny crustaceans and a wide variety of algae.

They should be given a balanced diet in a saltwater aquarium. They should be fed a wide range of foods for variety. Feeding them a specific food for too long can be detrimental to their health. Although there are some hobbyists that feed them new life spectrum pellets for prolonged periods of time with no ill effects. They seemed very healthy in fact.

They should be offered nori/algae sheets in addition to a balanced frozen food (Formula One, Formula Two) and a good pellet like those produced by New Life Spectrum.

The Pygmy Angel Formula by Ocean Nutrition is just about the perfect food for dwarf angels. Ingredients such as kelp, krill, squid,squid, vitamins and minerals and much more are used in this frozen food. Prior to freezing, the cubes are mixed with these ingredients. Unfortunately there is only one form of Pygmy Angel Formula, frozen cubes.

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The Achilles tang is a beautiful fish that pops up from time to time. It is a dark chocolate throughout with a single orange teardrop on its spine. White, orange and chocolate lines its tail. It is commonly known as the Achilles surgeonfish and the red-tailed surgeonfish.

This highly prized tang is endemic to Hawaii. A quick seller, finding one in the market may prove frustrating.

A very pricey tang, small specimens go for $100 or slightly more while adults can fetch up to $300 per fish. Extra large show quality specimens can fetch even more, $400 and above.

Sadly, this tang doesn't do all that well in captivity. Unlike some other species like the blue tang (paracanthurus hepatus) or the yellow tang (zebrasoma flavescens), they seem to be a bit more delicate. But that's only part of the story, they're not too keen on prepared foods either.

Like its brethren they are also prone to lateral line erosion, hole in the head disease and marine parasites.

In the wild, achilles tangs are known to interbreed with the goldrim tang (acanthurus nigricans). They're highly prized offspring rarely appear on the market and usually cost quite a bit.

Considered an aggressive surgeonfish, they've been known to harass other large tank mates. Smaller species like gobies, damsels and dottybacks are usually left alone. They do not take too kindly to sharing tank space with other tangs and are relentlessly hostile towards other achilles tangs. As always, if you must keep multiple achilles tangs always keep put them in at the same time and make sure your tank's big enough.

The Achilles tang reaches 9 inches in the wild, which means a maximum length of 7 inches or so in captivity. The minimum size tank for them should be a 100 gallons. Larger tanks are recommended as they require ample swimming room.

Getting these fishes to eat in captivity is challenging to say the least. Nevertheless, we should try our best.

They do not eat corals, making them reef safe. They are algae eaters in the wild so ensure a large part of their diet in captivity has enough algae.

Despite the fact that they're primarily herbivores in the wild, they are open to just about anything offered once acclimated. Krill, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, pellets, they take them all.

We should ensure that a large part of their diet is algae based, since they eat so much of it in the wild.

A good form of algae to feed tangs would be nori sheets.Depending on the brand, prices vary greatly. Some people may find Julian Sprungs Sea Veggies to cost a little too much. Good quality stuff though. They come in flake form too, making feedings very convenient.

Thankfully there are many other brands that produce nori primarily for human consumption. Some are cheap while the really high quality sheets can be very expensive.

You'll need to secure the nori to a clip. You could DIY a clip yourself and spend a couple of bucks on a commercial type. The sheets are sometimes rolled up and cut beforehand, most however, feed it as is. Secure the nori to your algae clip and attach it to the side of the aquarium.

Ocean Nutrition produces another good quality food, Formula Two. Along with mixed sea food, vitamins and whatnot, there is an extra amount of algae added to the mix. Available in three forms, pellet, flake or frozen cube.

The best flake food for the yellow tang would be Sea Veggie mixed flakes followed by formula two flakes. A great all-rounder with a good balance of ingredients, New Life Spectrum comes highly recommended as well.

Do not feed your tangs lettuce of any kind (romaine or iceberg). You'll normally see this happening at pet stores that are trying to save a few bucks. Lettuce doesn't have a place in this hobby as nutritionally its rubbish.

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  • Centropyge Loriculus : A Guide On The Brilliantly Colored Flame Angel by Gabriela Desouyez The stunning Flame Angelfish is the most popular dwarf angelfish, more popular than even the Coral Beauty Angelfish. Like the queen angelfish (holacanthus ciliaris), the flame angel is one of those fishes that every wanted or had at one point in the hobby.Its common name is the......
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  • Zebrasoma Flavescens : The Popular Yellow Tang The Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma Flavescens) is one of the most recognizable fishes in the marine aquarium industry along with the blue tang (Paracanthurus Hepatus), percula clownfish (percula, Ocellaris) and the Flame Angelfish (Centropyge Loriculus). It is the most popular member of the tang family and it isn't hard to......
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The Mandarin Dragonet (Synchiropus Splendidus) are one of the most breathtaking fishes found in the hobby. Its entire body is made up of blue, orange and green alternating line. They commonly go by the name, mandarin goby, despite not being a true goby at all. The mandarin dragonet is its true name.

The mandarin dragonet is heavily collected from the Indo-Pacific. Despite its common appearance at marine pet stores all over the world, it has an abysmal survival rate in our aquariums. I will address this problem later in the article.

They are a very peaceful fish. They are aggressive only towards other members of the genus such as the scooter dragonets. If you're interested in a pair of mandarin dragonets, buy a female and a male (elongated first dorsal spine) and introduce them together in the tank.

Mandarins can grow as long as 4 inches. Technically, they require a tank no smaller than 30 gallons, that is, if they're feeding. Getting them to eat prepared foods is a real challenge. This is because they only feed on live copepods. Therefore, it is my recommendation that the minimum sized tank for these beautiful fish be no less than a well established 75 gallon tank with plenty of copepods. You'll never have to feed them in an established tank that large. The tank will feed it so to speak, with its copepod populations.

You can also train them to eat prepared foods.First, you need adult live brine shrimp. They are receptive to live brine shrimp so getting them to eat it is a task that will take care of itself. Next, introduce some frozen artemia with the live ones during your next feeding. Once they start taking frozen artemia the task is half done. Since brine shrimp is nutritionally poor, we need to get to feed on something like mysis shrimp or krill.

As before, introduce some mysis shrimp with the frozen brine shrimp when you feed them. The deed is done once they start taking mysis shrimp. You should try and get them other foods such as a good pellet and krill.

But wait, there's another problem you will likely face with mandarin dragonets. They are among the slowest eaters you will ever have. It cannot compete with other tank mates for food, its that slow. This problem can be solved in three simple ways. You could blast food into the tank to ensure the mandarin gets some. Or, you can spot feed it with the use of a pipette. Lastly, you can find a plastic soft drink bottle that has a hole only the mandarin can fit through and put some foods there.

Its up to you to choose one or all of these methods.

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