
Horses are remarkable animals and can be great friends. If you own any, then you would be aware that horses spend the most part of their time standing on their feet. Well if what is underneath your horse's feet is concrete, it can eventually put too much pressure on them, causing pain in your horse's legs and joints. Putting a rubber horse mat in its stall can help relieve most of the pain and the stress, therefore facilitate relaxation.
One of the main advantages of using one of those mats is to preserve the heat. Concrete floors do not hold the heat very well. Putting a mat over the stall's concrete floor will help your horse stay warm and healthy. The materials use for those mats are naturally insulating. Wet concrete can also be very slippery, making it dangerous for your horse to slip and injure itself. Mats help provide some traction and avoid these incidents.
Cleaning always being a chore, stable rubber mats can make it easier for you. If your horse's stall needs to be sterilized, you will have less trouble to do so on a mat than you would on concrete or wood. You will need significantly less bedding, for the mat will be doing the usual hay bedding's job (like comfortable surface, heat, shock absorption and traction). Consequently you will find yourself saving money and time.
You can lay the rubber mats on any solid surface, such as wood, concrete or asphalt. You can find in a range of quality, depending on what you need. The main variations on mats are the weight, the thickness, the size (you can usually cut it the desired size), the material it is made of (for most rubber), the overall texture, if they are permeable and if they are portable.
The best rubber mats should not be permeable. If it is, it will get soaked up in urine, and eventually cause irreversible odor problems. Porous mats are a different thing. They basically are made up with rough grain, allowing urine to run through with being absorbed. Of you travel a lot with your horses; you might want to consider a portable mat, allowing you to take it with you.
The texture can be present on sides, only one or neither. A textured mat will give your horse extra traction, while a smooth one will give provide you with less demanding cleaning. It always varies on your horse's necessities.
Cleaning a stall with a mat is a breeze compare to the one laid with hay! You will still need your fork or shovel, but will have a lot less to pick up than you usually would. To keep it even cleaner, it is a good idea to spray it a few times a week or month with a hose. If you are using a pressure hose, make certain to keep a safe distance not to cause detriment to it.
Rubber horse mats can bring you many advantages, as well as your horses. Remember that a horse that is relaxed and contented will be a better worker and a better pet. Prices roughly range between 30 and 60 USD.
As the invention that revolutionized the equine industry, these rubber mats for your stables are ergonomic and highly efficient. The stall mats not only provide comfort and warmth, but they also relieve the pressure and stress from the feet of your horses. Related Posts - Give Your Cat a Hand With Its Grooming People might be surprised at just how much fur one cat can actually shed. Long-haired breeds produce a lot of fur, but even short-haired cats can shed astonishing volumes of the stuff. Is there anything you can do to keep the situation under control? A lot of basic grooming is......
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Written by Adriana Noton
using tags: animals, equipment, ergonomic, floor, horse racing, horses, invention, Pets, products, racing, shopping, stress, tools
A saddle is one of the most important bits of horse riding apparel, so there are lots of things what you must take into account while deciding on horse saddles for sale. 1st, your riding style must be identified. Invariably, this is either English or Western, although there are also specialty saddles intended for activities like polo, dressage, jumping, as well as racing.
In English riding, the rider holds one reign in each hand and tells the horse to turn by lightly pulling one reign, which applies pressure to a bit in the horse's mouth.
Western- style riders have both reigns in one hand and tell the horse to turn by shifting their weight or laying the reigns against the horses neck. Western saddles are larger and heavier in comparison with English saddles and were actually designed for hard- riding cowboys.
The riders weight is distributed evenly across the horses back, which allows the horse and rider to become comfortable on long rides.
Dressage saddles make it possible for the riders leg as well as the horse to have a greater amount of contact. Your flaps are usually cut straight and narrow and these saddles have a different cut than an English saddle.
For jumping, a hunt seat saddle is needed. This saddle was actually produced for fox hunting, and it provides the rider a better position for jumping.
Horse racing needs a flat racing saddle. These are extremely lightweight and have really short stirrups hence the rider may lean forward as far as possible.
No matter the activity, the following problem is the type of saddle. You can find leather saddles, suede saddles, plus saddles made from man-made materials. Leather saddles are probably the most well known, and a high quality leather saddle will be able to last for years. Synthetic saddles are lightweight and easy to clean, but perhaps haven't the durability associated with a leather saddle.
The most important thing for saddles is comfort, for both the rider as well as the horse. A saddle that doesn't fit properly causes back muscle bruising on the horse. Saddle sizes are measured in inches, from the pommel to the cantle. There should be two to three inches of space between the rider and the back of the saddle once seated.
What's more, the saddle should remain firmly in place without slipping and it ought to fit the horse tightly across the shoulders and back without digging in.
There's lots of saddles available, so it is important to keep in mind your anticipated riding activities whenever selecting a horse saddle for sale.
For further free tips on Horse Saddle For Sale visit http://www.horse-saddles-for-sale.com Related Posts - Understanding and Curing Horse Cribbing Cribbing is one of the various bad habits which horses can develop. It appears to develop as a result of boredom, in particular when a horse is confined to a stall for most of the day and has never been observed in horses which live in a natural environment......
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Written by Reg Ryder
using tags: animals, equestrian, family, farm, hobbies, Home, horse riding, horse saddles for sale, horses, Pets, ranch, recreation, shopping, sports
Horse care is very involved. It requires keeping track of and preserving your horse's health as well as its emotional, physical and mental well-being. You must utilize all the available information to care for your horse and keep your horse in good condition. Below are a few important parts of proper horse care.
General Well-Being
There are many vital parts of horse health. For instance, horses may drink up to 10 gallons of water each day. Also if a horse's stay in their own excrement for long periods of time, they can become very sick. Horses coats need to be groomed on a regular basis for good hygiene. With all the issues involved in caring for your horse, it is important that you get the bulk of your advice from your own veterinarian because they are the most aware to your horse's needs and situation.
Hoof Maintenance
Horse hooves should be cleaned with a hoof pick to remove any debris and should also be checked to see that they are in good condition. Keeping feet clean and dry whenever possible helps prevent hoof diseases and complications such as thrush fungus which can severely handicap your animal. Daily cleaning is recommended, but a weekly hoof check for healthy horses is enough during milder weather conditions.
Feeding Your Horse
Feed your horse a few times each day, unless of course you have a pasture where they can feed on their own. Poor feeding practices can lead to colic or other complications which can severely injure or kill a horse. Keeping food clean and away from dirt as much as possible will help to prevent this. You must keep an eye on what your horse is ingesting as they are not as picky as they should be. Otherwise your horse may become very ill.
With more thorough knowledge, you can be a better caretaker for your horse. Of course there are many other issues to consider in horse care. It is important for you to be responsible and well-versed in all aspects of caring for your horse. Once we have domesticated them it is our duty to maintain their well-being in order to ensure that they live long and healthy lives as our pets and friends.
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Written by Tom Wills
using tags: barrel racing, cattle farms, cow horses, english saddles for sale, Farming, hobbies, horse saddles for sale, horseback riding, horses, Pets, ranching, saddles for sale, show horses, western saddles for sale
Colic is the most commonly occuring serious horse illness, affecting at least 1 in 10 horses each year. It is the single biggest cause of premature horse death and also the most frequent source of major veterinary bills. In addition, it can cause other serious illnesses, such as laminitis or founder.
Colic is not a single illness but rather a group of related illnesses affecting the digestive system. As such, there are many different types of horse colic and various different causes. Extensive research, covering thousands of case studies, has identified the main causes of the various types of colic. Following is a list of actions to avoid the primary causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of your horse developing colic.
1) Frequent Feedings. Horses have evolved to graze throughout the day. The more frequently they eat, the healthier their digestive system.
2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse's diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.
3) Soak Pellets. Pelleted food (e.g. hay pellets) should be soaked before feeding. This prevents bolting and choke. In addition, unsoaked pellets can greatly expand when they enter the stomach, resulting in bloating.
4) Secure the Feedroom. The feedroom should be locked or have a horse-proof latch to prevent horses from getting in and gorging themselves. Excessive feeding, especially on grain and similar foods, can result in colic. It can also cause laminitis or founder.
5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.
6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.
6) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.
7) De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.
Exercise. Horses which receive regular moderate exercise are less likely to develop colic. In particular, access to a large pasture during the day provides useful exercise. If starting or changing an exercise regime, changes should be gradual as rapid increases in the duration or intensity of exercise can result in colic.
9) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don't eat.
10) Temperature. A horse that becomes chilled is likely to develop colic. This is particularly true if there is a sudden drop in temperature. If a horse is likely to be chilled (e.g. old, weak, sick, shaved, short coat, unaccustomed to cold) then they need to be protected during extreme weather. The use of a rug should be considered. During extremely cold weather, especially if wet and windy, it may be adviseable to confine weaker horses to their stables.
Dr. Doug Stewart is the author of Horse Colilc, which examines the causes and prevention of horse colic. He also writes on other Horse Health issues.
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Written by Doug Stewart
using tags: colic, equine, horse, horse colic, horses, Pets
Cribbing is one of the various bad habits which horses can develop. It appears to develop as a result of boredom, in particular when a horse is confined to a stall for most of the day and has never been observed in horses which live in a natural environment (e.g. pasture based). With cribbing, the horse grabs an object (e.g. fence rail or feeding trough) with its front teeth, then arches its neck while pulling on the item, then sucks in air. Although the reason for this activity has not been proven, it is believed that the horse does it because it results in the release of brain chemicals (such as endorphins) which are pleasurable. The terms 'crib biting' and 'wind sucking' are also used.
Cribbing is sometimes mistaken for 'wood chewing', which is a different behavioral problem. In wood chewing the horse nibbles on wood to occupy itself whereas in cribbing the horse sucks in air to trigger the release of endorphin brain chemicals. Both damage wood, but the physical activity and the purpose are completely different. If you watch your horse or examine the damaged wood carefully, it should be clear which of these two problems your horse has.
Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse's teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).
Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.
The above actions are normally quite successful in reducing the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, merely providing a good environment will not in itself cure the habit. One also needs to take steps to physically prevent cribbing. There are a number of options here; none of them are successful with every horse so you may need to try different ones until you find one that works with your horse and situation.
One of the most common approaches is a 'cribbing strap', also known as a 'cribbing collar', which is a strap that fits around the neck with a mental plate on the underside to make it uncomfortable for the horse to swell its neck to suck air. Another device is the use of a muzzle, which allows the horse to eat but prevents it from grasping items with its teeth. One can also put a live (under current) fencing wire along fence rails to prevent the horse from grabbing the rails, or paint the rails with an unpleasant tasting paint (a number of veterinary approved products are available). In some cases, certain medications (in particular, anti-depressants) are helpful. Finally, if all else fails, there is a surgical solution.
One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.
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Written by Duber Stewart
using tags: horse, horse behavior, horse behaviours, horse care, horse crib biting, horse cribbing, horse wind sucking, horses, Pets
If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).
In addition to getting a horse very cheaply, you are also doing a good deed by adopting the horse. In so doing, you free up the rescue association's resources, allowing them to take on other animals.
The rescue association will want to know that any horse they pass on will be well taken care of, so expect an interview prior to the association agreeing to give you a horse. They will want to know that there are proper facilities (e.g. box, paddock, fields) for the horse. You will also need to demonstrate that you have the personal commitment, time and money to properly take care of the horse.
There may be a number of horses available. Before choosing one, it is advisable to learn as much about it and its background as possible. This will help you identify any potential issues such as health problems or behavioral issues. You should ask about the results of their veterinary examinations of the horse and also the opinions of the staff caring for the horse.
It is also useful to discuss why the horse has been rescued. If it was merely a financial issue (e.g. the owner lost his job and could no longer afford the horse) then there is a good chance that the horse has no major issues. On the other hand, if the horse was rescued because it was abused or neglected, one should determine the exact nature of the problem and whether this could have longer term behavioral or health implications.
It is also important to be clear about your requirements. If you are looking for a companion horse, then age and riding ability are not that important. However, if you intend to ride the horse regularly, then it should be reasonably young and fit, preferably well trained as well. It may be that the rescue centre does not have a horse which meets your requirements. In this case, rather than compromise on your requirements, it is best to wait. Make sure that the staff know that you will provide a good home for the right horse, and provide in writing both your requirements and your contact information. Given the frequency with which horses are rescued, it is quite likely that the horse you are looking for will become available in a few weeks or months, unless your requirements are unusual.
Duber Stewart authored Free Horse and is the owner of Buy a Horse. Related Posts - Tending To A Horse Horse care is very involved. It requires keeping track of and preserving your horse's health as well as its emotional, physical and mental well-being. You must utilize all the available information to care for your horse and keep your horse in good condition. Below are a few important parts......
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Written by Duber Stewart
using tags: animals, horse, horses, Pets, rescue
There are many horse breeds (hundreds) but they all fall into one of three categories: warm blood, cold blood or hot blood.
The breeds making up the cold blood category originated mainly from Europe, where they were the result of breeding programs to produce horses that could work long hours each day, doing heavy work such as pulling plows, barges or carts. For these tasks there was little need for speed but they were required to have both strength and endurance. Consequently, these breeds developed with large muscular bodies, heavy bone structures and big joints. They also were bred to have a quiet and obedient nature, so that they would obey commands and work long hours without complaint and without risk of them spooking and running off. To deal with the cold winters, they had heavy coats and manes.
Hot bloods originated mainly from the middle-east and other warm climates, where they were used for racing and riding. Instead of the cold breed qualities of power and docility, the hot bloods were bred for speed or distance riding, so had lighter legs and bodies. Due to the warmth of their native climates, they had shorter hair in their coats, manes and tails. Likewise, their blood vessels are nearer the skin surface to allow heat to be dissipated better. In temperament they are energetic and spirited, with a desire to run. Perhaps the best known breeds in this category are the Arabian (ancestor of many modern hot blood breeds) and the Thoroughbred (also used as part of the breeding program for many other breeds).
The warm blood breeds (also known as warmbloods) are between the hot and cold bloods both physically and in terms of their nature. In fact, many of the warmblood breeds are the result of mating hot bloods and cold bloods to develop a new breed with the positive characteristics of both. Their build is athletic, providing both speed and endurance, but without the power of a cold breed or the pure speed of a hot blood. They have a calm nature and are generally intelligent, making they easily trainable for sports such as show jumping and dressage. Although bred for a variety of duties in the past (such as war horses and carriage horses), today they are mainly used for sport and pleasure riding. The Friesian and Hanoverian are examples of warm breeds
The categories cold, warm and hot has nothing to do with the temperature of the horses (all horses have a normal temperature of about 38C) or their blood. Instead, it refers to the origin of the breeds (cold or hot climates), their build (heavy or athletic) and their character (calm or spirited).
Over the past hundred years we've seen machines replace much of the functions of horses, with farm and other equipment taking over the function of cold bloods, while modern transport has taken over the traditional employment of warmbloods. Fortunately, sports and pleasure riding have grown to partly fill this gap, with different types of activities suited to each category. In addition, even for pleasure riding, the preferred horse type depends on what you want to do. For pure speed it is the hot blood, for complex sports such as show jumping it is the warmblood, while the cold blood's calm and reliable nature make it a favorite with many children and less confident adults.
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Written by Duber Stewart
using tags: cold blood, cold blood horse, coldblood, coldblood horse, horse, horses, Pets, warm blood, warmblood, warmblood horse
Animal Communication can help pet owners in a number of ways. It will help you to understand and pick up vital information regarding your animals' health and happiness. Having the ability to feel an animal form their perspective allows us to move from placing our own thoughts and judgements on our animals. Making animal communication a must have tool if you truly care for animals.
Often we can completely miss-judge situation regarding our animals' behaviour. It is very easy for us people to see a situation and then jump to our own negative conclusions. I am sure that you will agree that there is nothing more hurt full and unfair than someone making judgements about you that are not true!
For example the other day I saw how a dog had been labelled as a bully with other dogs. This strong judgement had been made because the owner had observed that when her dog was around younger or gentle dogs, she would look very friendly but when she got close would snap at them and show aggressive signs.
Yet her dogs behaviour with nervous or protective dogs was very different. She would not go anywhere near them.
Using animal communication it became very clear that her dog was desperate to be sociable with other dogs. The reason for the aggression was that she was afraid of the intimacy. Now it became clear why she was approaching the younger and gentle dogs. She was also very sensitive to other dogs feelings and this is why she did not want anything to do with nervous or protective dogs.
Her wanting to be close to dogs changed as soon as she got to close to them as an overwhelming feeling of shyness and protection took over her.
This new information was so different to what the owner thought was happening with her dogs social skills. That it allowed us to have a completely new approach, focused on helping her to overcome her shyness. Her dog was so keen to make friends that it made the process very effective when everyone was coming from the same perspective.
Understanding our animals from this feeling language gives us the power to really help them. If you are still in a place where you keep asking yourself why they are doing this or that. Then you have not found this connection and understanding that your animal is looking for!
Animal communication is very natural and does not take long to learn. With these skills you will be creating a trusting environment for both you and your animal, as you will understand each other more. It is the same for us humans, when we find someone who understands us we naturally listen to and trust them. Animal communication is the key to a deeper relationship.
James French is an international pioneering animal communicator. The founder of Animal Communication Training The UK's most established and well known animal communication teaching programs, helping people from beginners to professional independent animal communicators. Reikicare Related Posts - 5 Ingredients For An Improved Life With Your Dog - From Fetch to Food to Frontline Flea Medicine by Jessie Wales From special time and exercise, to proper grooming, medical aid and proper treatments, like Frontline flea drugs, dogs have certain wishes that you, as the owner will have to take care of. Make the maximum of your relationship with your pet by committing the time and money......
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Written by James French
using tags: Animal behavior, animal communication, animals, Cats, dog training, Dogs, horses, Pets
Wood chewing is a common horse problem which not only damages wood but can also injure your horse. The splinters can get stuck in the teeth or gums of the horse. If swallowed, they could puncture the stomach or intestines. Consequently, to protect your horse and your property, one should correct this habit as soon as possible.
One first needs to check that the problem is wood chewing and not cribbing. Both activities are similar in that they involve the horse biting and damaging wood, but they are completely different problems. Wood chewing is exactly that; the horse chews on wood (e.g. in its stall or wooden fencing). With cribbing the horse does not chew on the wood but instead grabs it with its front teeth, then arches its neck and sucks in air. If you watch the horse, you can easily see which of the two problems it has, as the two activities are completely different. If you can't catch the horse in the act, examination of the wood should tell you, as one needs to check if the wood has been nibbled away or simply bitten hard.
In the case of wood chewing, the most common cause is boredom, typically with horses which are left in their stalls much of the day. In some cases, wood chewing can be the result of stress, with the horse using wood chewing to distract itself (in somewhat the say way as certain people chew their fingernails when under stress). The third possible cause is a mineral deficiency, resulting in the horse chewing on wood or eating earth in an attempt to find the missing minerals.
The first step in fixing the problem is to address the underlying cause. Since it is not always possible to know which of the three possible causes is the problem, the easiest solution is to address all three. Provide the horse with as much pasture time as possible, as this provides mental stimulation and also an outlet for nervous energy. Give it chewy food such as grass and hay, which will occupy it and meet its natural desire to chew better than fast foods such as grain or muesli. Companion horses, exercise and an interesting environment all help. In case the problem is nutritional, ensure that it has good access to a salt lick and a mineral stone. Try to identify anything which may be causing the horse stress (e.g. bullying by another horse) and address the issue.
These steps should result in a reduction in wood chewing. However, once the horse has the habit of chewing on wood, the habit will continue even after the reason for it is fixed. Consequently, one also needs to take steps to address the behavioral aspect in addition to the causes.
One stops the habit by making it unpleasant or impossible for the horse to chew wood. There are a number of products which are designed to taste terrible which one can paint onto wood surfaces, so the horse does not want to chew on them. For fencing, adding an electric fence wire (under current) to the top of the rails will keep the horse from chewing them. Within the stall, one can place metal strips onto the top of wood (e.g. on top of wooden stall doors).
One should make sure to address both the cause (e.g. boredom) and the behavior (e.g. with paint). Doing just one or the other is insufficient. If one fixes the cause but not the behavior, the habit is likely to continue, although to a lesser amount. If one prevents the behaviour (e.g. with paint) but does not address the underlying cause, the horse still has a problem and this may well lead to the development of a different behavioral problem.
Duber Stewart is the owner of Horses For Sale, and author of Wood Chewing
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Written by Duber Stewart
using tags: horse, horse wood chewing, horses, horses eating wood, Pets
Those who own hoses know how wonderful these animals are to have as a companion. They are smart, sensitive, and fun to be around. These beautiful and majestic animals require a lot of care and love. It is important to make sure your horse is happy so you can have a pleasant and gentle companion.
The following are the top 10 ways to make your horde happy:
1. Properly feed your horse. Because it is in a horse's nature to constantly graze, have set times of the day to feed it. Horses like a routine so feed at the same times of the day. A horse requires a lot of fiber so give him fresh grass or hay. As well, give him grain, but not too much as it can upset his gut. He should have access to water at all times. Water keeps the food able to ferment so it won't get solid and hard in its hind gut.
2. Give your horse plenty of exercise. You want this exercise to be like play and not all work. Exercise keeps his muscle and tendons strong, improves blood circulation, and helps with digestion.
3. Groom your horse on a daily basis. Make sure you groom all over so that his hair and skin are clean and shiny.
4. Let your horse out everyday to run free in a pasture. It is a calming experience and lets the horse be a horse. He will get exercise, fresh air, and stretch his legs. Let him spend his time with other horses.
5. Your horses stable should be warm and clean, with a soft bed. The barn should have good ventilation and he should be in the barn with other horses. Clean the stable out every day so there is no build up of his droppings. Let cats live in the barn.
6. Give your horse lots of attention. Talk to him in a gentle voice, stroke him, rub him, scratch him, and play with him. Horses love affection.
7. Everyday, use a pick to clean out its horseshoes. The shoes should also fit well and are comfortable. A horse that is in distress or uncomfortable will be cranky, bite, kick, and his ears will lay back flat.
8. A horse needs a certain time of the day to relax and be by them selves. Give them a certain time each day to be by themselves. Outdoors in a pasture is a great place for a horse to play and relax.
9. Make sure you have a Vet for your horse. You have a responsibility to ensure the horse will be taken care of medically. Horses should never live in pain or with an illness. Care also includes appropriate de-worming, checking its teeth, and keeping an eye out for such conditions as colic. As well, you must keep his hooves trimmed.
Making your horse happy will not only benefit him, but it will enhance your life and provide you with a loyal and loving companion that is easy to handle.
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Written by Adriana Noton
using tags: equine, farm, horse, horse care, horse mats, horses, pet, Pets, rubber mats, stall mat
Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.
One begins with the general external appearance. The coat should be even, shinny and lie flat. The body should be well filled out, with well toned muscle. It should not be overweight or underweight. It should stand evenly on all four legs, with all four hooves pointing straight ahead. It is normal to rest a hind leg (but not a front leg), provided that it is not always the same leg which is rested.
Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.
Lift each foot in turn and carefully check the sole to ensure that it is correctly shaped and has no apparent injury. Both the angle and tilt of all hooves should be correct and uniform. If the horse resists lifting one or more feet, it may just be inadequate training but it could also be due to a reluctance to lift a good hoof and thereby put more weight on a bad one. Unless you are very familiar with hooves, you may wish to ask a professional farrier (blacksmith) to advise you on these various points.
Check the gums. They should be pink, shiny and moist. If they are dry, tacky, pale or any color other than salmon pink, there is a health issue. If one presses gently on the gums (careful with your fingers!), at the point where you are pressing they will turn white but as soon as you remove your finger the color should completely return to pink within two seconds.
Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.
Examine the horse's droppings. They should be firm, with a mild and inoffensive odor.
The horse should appear alert, interested in things around it, and happy. It should move its ears in response to noises and hold them in an upright position.
Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.
The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.
Ask the current owner about the horse's medical history. Ask if he will give you permission to talk with the horse's regular vet. Ask to see the medical records and inoculations book for the horse. In particular, ask if the horse has ever had colic, laminitis or any other illness. Be wary of any incomplete or evasive responses. Ask what the horse's normal diet is (horses fed a natural diet of grass, supplemented by hay, are less likely to have digestive problems than horses fed large on grains and feeds). Finally, ask the seller as to what written guarantee they provide in the event that a problem is found after sale, as this is an indication of the confidence they have in the horse's health.
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Written by Doug Stewart
using tags: buy horse, equine, equines, horse, horse care, horse health, horses, Pets
When looking for a horse, the desired age is an important consideration. Horses which are too young lack maturity and training while horses which are too old cannot provide many future years of riding. Following is a review the typical advantages and disadvantages of the various ages.
4-Year Old Horse. This is a popular age, as horses usually start training at age 3, to be ready for basic riding by age 4. Consequently, you can start riding and enjoying it immediately. It is also young enough that you can do advanced training if you wish. The disadvantage is that it will tend to be somewhat more expensive to buy than a younger untrained horse.
5 to 7 Years Old. A trained horse of this age has all the advantages of a 4-year old. However, it will be more emotionally mature and calmer, and may be trained to a higher level as well. All of these factors make it easier to manage and more reliable than a younger horse, so it is more suitable for new riders and for children. However, as a horse gets older it becomes more difficult and consequently more expensive to train so one should ensure that the horse is fully trained before the end of this period.
After 7 years. Horses become calmer and more reliable as they become older, so horses in this category are often the best choice for inexperienced riders. They also are generally less expensive than younger horses. Provided that the horse has been well treated and is not too old, it can have many years of riding left in it.
3-Year Old. A three year old horse (depending on breed) is ready to start its training and you can enjoy this experience. However, it is usually less expensive to buy a trained 4 year old that is ready to ride than to buy a 3 year old and pay for a year's stabling and training.
Under 3 years. The main benefit of horses under 3 years of age is that you can have the pleasure of watching them grow up. Although such young horses are cheaper to buy, in the end it is usually less expensive to buy a trained horse than it is to buy a foal and pay for the years of stabling and then training required before it is ready to ride. Furthermore, with an older trained horse one can be more certain of the horse's physical and mental characteristics than with a foal.
The above is a general guide only. Various breeds mature at different rates, as do individual horses. Owners also vary in terms of the timetable and extent of training they provide to their horses. If you intend to compete with the horse, you need to take into account various applicable age restrictions as well as the competitive requirements in terms of timing and intensity of training.
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Written by Duber Stewart
using tags: age horse, buy horse, equines, horse, horse age, horses, Pets, sell horse
The phrase horse agistment comes from English law where, to agist, meant to take cattle to graze, for a remuneration. Back when agistment first came into practice it referred to the proceeds of pasturage in the king's forests. But for us, horse agistment basically means when a horse owner keeps their horse on land owned by someone else, for a fee. However, the terms, facilities and services of horse agistments vary widely.
Many horse agistment properties offer excellent care and services for horse and rider, ranging in services from spelling agistment, riding agistment and small group agistment through to agistment with full care. When looking for somewhere to place your horse, you should be sure to consider the following: are the paddocks large enough to accommodate the number of horses, will your horse be kept on improved pastures that are weed free, regularly rotated, slashed, fertilised and irrigated where required. As an extra, are winter active grasses sown to ensure your horse has feed all year round saving you from expensive feed bills. Does every paddock have horse safe fencing that is either post and rail or post and plain wire fencing only and are all well sheltered with either natural windbreaks and shade trees or quality man made structures.
Keeping your horse worm free is another point to consider so some property owners offer this service as well as things like horse dentistry. It is these kinds of services that should help you in your decisions in order to make the process as hassle free as can be. A lot of horse agistment places will also offer the added bonus of organising riding days and social events where owners can bond with their horse, and with other horse owners, while getting the horse out and about and burning off some energy.
It is in your own best interests to actually go out to the places you are considering and do an inspection of your own. This way you can talk to the staff and find out if they are properly trained and qualified. Make sure they are passionate about what they do and you can be sure your horse is in good hands... and again, make sure there are plenty of places nearby like national parks and riding trails to actually take your horse out for a ride whenever you can.
So in conclusion, if you are looking into horse agistment, it does not matter which "side of the fence" you are on, there are plenty of things to discuss when it comes to drawing up the contracts. Unfortunately, these days, contracts are an essential for these kinds of things so make sure both parties are agreed on the responsibilities of each and that all costs, fees and pricing structures are double checked before signing. Not to mention things like contingency plans for natural disasters, like flooding and forest fires, all the way to things like procedures for unexpected illness, diseases and injuries of the animals in question.
Want to find out more about horse agistment? Then visit Michelle Rudge's site on how to choose the best horse agistment property for your needs. Related Posts - 7 Easy Tips For Grooming Your Horse by Riche Goldmann Horses demand more than just a casual feeding and brushing. Just ask any horse owner or veterinarian and they will quickly tell you that these animals require a great deal of care and patience. The upkeep and maintenance for large animals can be overwhelming if you do......
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Written by Michelle Rudge
using tags: animals, Home, horse, horses, Pets, ponies, pony
Laminitis is a serious hoof disease found in equines (e.g. horses, ponies, donkeys). Although it is very rare for laminitis to kill a horse directly, severe cases can result in the horse being put down for humane reasons (horse is in pain) or economic factors (horse is crippled and can no longer be used). Such euthanasia is sufficiently common that laminitis has become the second most common cause of premature horse death.
The term 'laminitis' comes from 'laminae', which is the tissue which connects the hoof bone (correctly known as the pedal bone) to the hoof wall. Damage to this tissue is known as 'laminitis'. In mild cases the tissue becomes inflamed and begins to break down, reducing the strength of the bone-wall connection. In more severe cases the connection is reduced to the point that the bone begins to move, rotating within the hoof and sinking down. In extreme cases, the hoof will actually go through the sole of the hoof. As the bone moves, it can cause further damage to blood vessels and other surrounding tissues. Longer term, this damage affects the hoof repair and growth mechanisms, resulting in various types and degree of abnormal growth (e.g. convex or flat sole, hoof wall rings, separation of sole and hoof wall). In mild cases, the horse can return to normal activities. In more severe cases, the horse will need to be retired or put down.
The term 'founder' is associated with laminitis but can be used in several different senses. Some people use founder as the lay term for laminitis, while others use it to describe the more serious forms of laminitis (e.g. when the pedal bone penetrates the sole).
There are two main sources of damage to the laminae, leading to laminitis. One is toxins, which enter the blood and travel to the laminae, where they cause inflammation and tissue breakdown. The other is mechanical, where the laminae is damaged due to repeated shocks to the hoof (e.g. from running or jumping on hard surfaces).
Overly rich food changes the bacterial population in the intestines, with a subsequent release of toxins by the bacteria. It occurs when the horse received a large amount of food which is too high in carbohydrates or nitrogen. This can occur either with rich feed (e.g. grain or muesli) or lush pasture. Pasture is most likely to be too rich in spring, when rain follows a dry period, or when fertilizer has been used. As some breeds (especially ponies) are more sensitive, special care should be taken that neither their feed nor their pasture is too rich. When putting horses and ponies on rich pasture, one should limit the amount of grazing time and consider the use of a grazing muzzle to restrict the amount they eat.
Mechanically caused laminitis most often occurs in competition horses, such as jumping horses or race horses, which are worked on hard ground. However, it can also occur to pleasure horses, if they are worked or travel on hard surfaces. One should try to avoid use of a horse on hard surfaces and when it is necessary to travel on hard surfaces try to reduce the pace as a walking horse will have less shock to its feet than a running horse. Ensure that the feet are correctly trimmed; in particular avoid over-trimming or trimming for long toes as these reduce the shock resistance of the feet. If the horse has shoes, ensure that the shoeing is done by a competent professional. Shock absorbing shoes (e.g. horse shoes with a rubber component) and boots are increasingly used, even in competitive sports, to reduce not only the risk of laminitis but also other shock related injuries.
The third major cause of laminitis is toxins which are unrelated to overly rich feed. This includes toxins which are ingested (e.g. through moldy hay, or grass which has been treated with herbicides) or toxins which are produced due to an infection within the horse. Ensure that food does not contain fungus, mold or chemicals. Ensure that any infections are promptly and aggressively treated, before they can result in toxin overload leading to laminitis.
The above article on Laminitis and Founder was written by Dr. Doug Stewart.
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Written by Doug Stewart
using tags: equine, founder, horse, horse disease, horse illnesses, horses, laminitis, Pets
People can be allergic to horses, which can result in one or more of the following symptoms: - Itchy or watery eyes - Runny or itchy nose - Itchy skin, hives or rashes - Coughing or Sneezing - Breathing problems - Asthma attack
The severity of these symptoms can range from a minor runny nose to a serious asthma attack. In the case of asthma sufferers, care should be taken when first coming into contact with horses, as there have been a few cases of fatal asthma attacks. This is doubly true for asthmatic children, who in the excitement of being with horses may not notice the early symptoms, so they should be monitored by an adult when first encountering horses to ensure that they do not have a serious adverse reaction.
The most common cause of horse allergies is horse dander (bits of hair and skin which flake off, like dandruff). Other common causes include horse mites, urine and even horse salvia.
One can easily have an allergic reaction without touching or being close to a horse. If one enters a barn or other enclosed area which has been recently used to hold horses, one can have a reaction to allergic agents which remain even though no horses are present at the time. Likewise, if one has a friend or family member who rides, it is quite possible to have a reaction when coming into contact with their riding clothes, tack or even their hair as allergic agents can easily be rubbed into these.
Fortunately, horse allergies can be treated, using the same approaches as for other allergies. These include avoidance (if practical and acceptable), medications (such as anti-histamines or corticosteroids), or desensitizing treatment.
If you wish to ride but are allergic to horses, you may wish to try the 'curly horse' breeds as many people who suffer from horse allergies find that they are not allergic to these breeds.
Finally, you could try medical testing or trial-and-error to determine which aspect of the horse you are allergic to and then simply take care to avoid this aspect. For example, if allergic to urine, rather than go into the stable to get your horse, have it brought out to you. As another example, if allergic to horse mites, have your horse and its box treated against mites, which should greatl
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Written by Doug Stewart
using tags: allergies, allergy, animals, asthma, equine, horse, horses, pet, Pets
by Amy P. Cunningham
Horses in Florida are the latest target of equine thieves. These hooligans are terrorizing local barns and stables in an attempt to steal and resell horses.
Some steps that seem to work in keeping horses safe are security systems consisting of monitors and cameras. These have been effective in both deterring and apprehending equine criminals. Proper lighting and lock systems is also a great deterrent.
But what about those owners who keep horses in pasture situations? Those horses are the most likely targets, and keeping them safe has become quite an issue for most. In order to stave off an attempt at theft, owners are getting creative. Many are making patrols around the pasture at night, just to make sure no one is out where they dont need to be.
Horses living far out in pasture can be brought in towards the pasture owners primary residence. Near the home is a great place to set up less expensive security measures like baby monitors and an old fashioned window overlooking the pasture.
Video cameras are fantastic ways to protect your horses from danger. Not only will these cameras provide and acceptable way to monitor the horses from afar, but they will also allow you to video tape any burglars that may be successful.
Men and women that decide to patrol their pastures should make sure they are well prepared for any sort of trouble they might run into. Always remember to bring two flashlights, a cell phone, and even a firearm or can of pepper spray for protection. Never confront a criminal before calling your local authorities.
The multi-tool is a great companion for patrols. This little gadget is easy to carry because it is lightweight and designed to fit in a pocket or belt strap. Use this tool for making any sort of emergency repairs while out on patrol.
I hope this article has given you the knowledge you need to start protecting your horses with more care. Use the information you gained here to start your horse security systems and never stop improving them.
About the Author:
Read more about keeping your horse safe with equine health tips that work. You can keep your horse healthy by guarding against things like the influenza, horse strangles, horse fever, and even copd
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Written by Amy P. Cunningham
using tags: animal care, animals, horses, Pet Care, Pets
by Tom Wills
Horse care is not easy. It involves monitoring and maintaining your horse's health as well as its emotional, physical and mental well-being. Be sure that you have all the necessary information to care for your horse and keep your horse healthy. Below are a few key aspects of proper horse care.
General Well-Being
There are many specific factors to horse health. For example, healthy horses may drink up to 8 to 10 gallons of water per day. And there are health risks to the horse if it stands in its own manure for long periods. Also Horses groomed regularly have healthier coats and less disease. Always remember that your main source of health care advice for your horse should be your veterinarian who knows the specifics of your horse and its circumstances.
Caring For Your Horse's Hooves
Horse hooves must be cleaned often and also checked regularly for any need of repair or replacement. Clean, dry hooves help prevent against nasty hoof fungus or any other debilitating illness that can occur with a neglected horse. Daily cleaning and inspections are ideal in dry or normal and severe weather conditions.
Feeding Your Horse
Feed horses two or three times a day, unless they are out to pasture all day. Horses that are fed incorrectly may develop colic, particularly if fed contaminated or dirty feed, too much feed, or excessive varieties of feed. Feed should be rotated in order to make sure it is free of feces and dirt. Feeding moldy or dusty hay can not only cause colic, but it can also cause breathing problems.
With more thorough knowledge, you can be a better caretaker for your horse. Of course there are many other issues to consider in horse care. It is important for you to be responsible and well-versed in all aspects of caring for your horse. Once we have domesticated them it is our duty to maintain their well-being in order to ensure that they live long and healthy lives as our pets and friends.
About the Author:
Contributor: Tom Wills would love to share information about saddles for sale with everyone online who has any inquiries regarding finding a new saddle for sale.
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Written by Tom Wills
using tags: barrel racing, cattle farms, cow horses, english saddles for sale, Farming, hobbies, horse saddles for sale, horseback riding, horses, Pets, ranching, saddles for sale, show horses, western saddles for sale
by Richard B. Saunders
Horses can communicate with each other beautifully, but sometimes people have a hard time understanding horse language. However, because the horse world and the human world often overlap, it is important and beneficial for people to make an effort to learn to talk with and listen to horses.
Horses, since they do not have vocal cords per se, communicate for the most part by positioning their bodies in specific ways. The lexicon of horse body language can include the most subtle of signals from tiny twitches all the way though whole-body movements. The horse has at its disposal any of multiple body parts with which to express a thought or attitude. The underlying intelligence must be understood before a human can effectively interpret these gestures.
Horses can use their ears to express a number of direct statements. Both ears pricked up straight and tense might mean, ?I?m excited,? while both ears twitching back and forth in opposite directions might mean, ?I?m nervous, but not too upset.? Any human working with horses should make the effort to learn the subtle movements and associated behaviors of their horses? ears.
A horse's tail is extremely useful as a flyswatter. However, it can also tell you a lot about your horse's frame of mind. If your horse has a relaxed tail, he is probably pretty content. He may also be bored or confused. If he is holding his tail upright, he may be suspicious or curious. Look at the context for clues as to the meaning. Know your horse well so that you can read his unique body language in every situation.
How a horse moves its legs can communicate a range of emotional states, all the way from skittishness to a dangerous degree of anger. The rearing horse immediately comes to mind as an obvious example of the extreme. This defensive posturing also serves to tell those around the horse of intense internal agitation involving fear and/or anger. Only a fool would not pay a large and powerful animal the respect of backing off until it feels safe enough to calm down.
Watch your horse?s neck and head for clues about his happiness and alertness. Even the body can be used to express feeling. Watch for twitching skin, different breathing patterns, and whether your horse is standing at attention or turned around to pay attention to something to one side (or within). Your horse?s head, neck and body can give you clues as to contentment, anger, jealousy and even illness.
Many people say that dogs are man?s best friend, but there are surely those who will say a horse is man?s best friend. This is because certain people have ?the touch? and are able to talk with horses by watching their subtle signs of communication and paying attention to the environment for clues as to meaning.
Horses have personalities as distinct as their human owners. Their intelligence is matched by their desire to please. Horses have incorporated humans into their world, and they regularly communicate as mutually understood beings in the same family, both horse and human.
About the Author:
Yearning to read more about horses and how to live with them? Do yourself a solid and visit our site and learn about horse feed, horse care, horse bedding, and the many horse breeds
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Written by Richard B. Saunders
using tags: animals, horses, Pets
by Elias Maseko
Many horse owners prefer good cutting horses as a matter of fact a few would even devise reasons to confirm their horse is a good one. It is difficult to tell if a cattle horse is a good cutting horse, so to possess some knowledge of horse training these animals, you need to know the popular myths about this animal.
1. A colt chases any animal (e.g. dogs or human) which ventures into the territory, but this is not a dependable sign to determine its possibilities for this role. Colts are normally playful and your horse might not be behaving as a cutting horse though merely playing or entertaining themselves along with animals and humans. People or other animals look quite varied from cattle and besides, colts don't have riders to control their movements.
If you teach a colt to become a cutting horse, it will immediately learn this isn't the same as playing and will have to work therefore a decent example will work cows using flair, correct form, and precision. A horse that aimlessly races across a fiend is not a good one but specific breeds are inclined to do cutting work and therefore you must choose the right colt variation. Make a note of the dame and sire of the colt - if they are good cutters, then the colt might tread the same course.
2. Although many animals are disturbed or frightened to see other creatures such as cattle, specific breeds do not get frightened quickly, though that's not an indication that it can be trained to become a decent cutting horse. In many instances, good cutting horses react aggressively to the first sight of cows and should be able to control cows though they may be afraid initially, leaving the other creature at a secure distance.
3. Specific horse breeds are great cutting horses but this doesn't mean that they will also do well in competitions. A foundation bred horse isn't as great as a decently-bred cutting horse and oftentimes, horse trainers discover it's difficult to teach such creatures to perform well for competitions because they tend to be slow learners and do things in their way. They also are devoid of style and athletic ability so it is often better to get a horse with the strong bloodlines of cutting horses.
4. Horses are very different and as is the pace at which they learn and though some horses learn fast, others do not, so the time of their training isn't a critical element. Cutting horses are educated till they attain a level of becoming an effective cutter so if you want to enter contests, the colt must begin teaching as early as possible.
Even if your horse has experience as well as skill, accidents could be committed if it's rider is inexperienced, so start horse training now so that your horse will learn everything it has to be aware of.
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Written by Elias Maseko
using tags: animals, horses, Pets
Riding a horse for the first time can be an intimidating, even scary idea for the novice beginner. However, your first time on a horse should be a pleasurable and rewarding experience.
Your first ride should be confined to a corral or riding pen with an experienced instructor teaching you. Find a local barn or stable that provides the instruction you'll need. Ask for help deciding whether you want to ride Western or English style.
Riding western is a little more relaxed, and is practiced most often in trail riding or pleasure riding. If you are not ready to make a commitment to a regular riding style, stick with Western pleasure. You will learn the basic commandments of how to ride and guide your horse, in a more calm and pleasurable style.
When you arrive for the initial lesson, be sure to familiarize yourself with the environment. This helps because if you are relaxed and comfortable, you'll have a better experience. Horses identify their riders by scent. Let your horse get familiar with your scent before you attempt a mount. Hold your hand out with the palm up and keep your thumb tucked in so that it doesn't tempt the horse by looking like a carrot. When you're sure the horse is familiar with your scent, give it some neck pets.
One of the things that must be checked before you mount the horse is the girth. The saddle is held in place by a strap the goes under the horse's belly. It should be tight enough to hold the saddle in place. It should be tight enough to barely fit two fingers under it at the center of the belly. Ask your instructor to show you how to check the girth and then tighten or loosen accordingly. Once the girth is in good order, it is time to mount up.
Since this is your first time on a horse, use a mounting block to mount the horse (always on the left side!) Place your left foot in the left stirrup, and swing your right side over the horse, and place your right foot in the right stirrup. If your instructor is not holding the horse for you, make sure you have a grip on the reins while mounting.
Your instructor will teach you to sit correctly in the saddle. You should be seated up straight, with your lower body relaxed. It will help if you can think of a string pulling your top half straight up in the air. Your lower body then becomes a part of the horse. Keep your bum moving smoothly with the horse's' movements. Point your ankles down in the stirrup, which have been adjusted to your length.
This should be fun and not in the least uncomfortable. Become one with the horse. Relax and enjoy the ride.
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Written by Victor R. Santerino
using tags: animal care, animals, horses, Pet Care, Pets
I've always considered anything to do with horses to be "elitist" and never thought I, as a middle income wage earner would ever have more than a passing acquaintance with it, however, in 1981, I gave birth to a beautiful little girl who quickly became enamored with the huge beasts from the time she could talk.
At the time, I figured it was a passing fancy that she would soon outgrow, so I was not concerned with the costs involved with horses, riding lessons, equestrian clothing, etc.
In her elementary school years, my daughter did not excel. According to her teachers and other child experts we took her to, she was mentally slow. They told my husband and I that we should not be concerning ourselves with a college education for her. We just knew they were wrong and set out to prove it was THEM, not her who was deficient.
Her first riding lesson took place when our daughter was 10 years old. We watched in wonder as perched atop the horse, she transformed from the shy, introverted persona that she portrayed in school and became the self-confident champion that we had been sure lurked inside.
But, oh, the expense of it all. Keeping her on that horse became almost unmanageable for us over that next year, and we suffered trying to pay the costs of this "horse habit".
Then, in the sixth grade, we were offered a trade off for her riding lessons. If she worked at the stables, doing everything from grooming horses to helping new, younger riders, she could earn her lessons.
Six years later, our daughter graduated from high school with top honors in all her subjects as well as with a full scholarship to one of the best colleges in the United States. When she was 17, she finally removed the name of her old horse, Merlin, from its place of honor on her notebook, replacing it with the name of her boyfriend. But the boyfriend was well aware that this honor was bestowed upon him only because he also had a deep passion for horses.
Our 3.8 grade point average college graduate never cost us a dime after her sixth grade. She worked steadily at the stable until she graduated.
We look back over our daughter's growing up years and her educational career, and we realize that her passion for everything about horses, and her love of riding not only helped her be successful in that field, but in school and every other area of her life. The determination and work ethic that was required for her to follow her passion taught important lessons, and her willingness to earn her own lessons from an early age, showed her the way to achieve by hard work in a way that many other parents have wished their children possessed.
We are extremely glad that we allowed our daughter to become involved in this "costly" pastime all those years ago. It acted as an incentive for her to adjust and find her place in this otherwise crazy world. Horses accomplished what the "experts" could not - just by being there for her.
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Written by Rachel M. Quake
using tags: animal care, animals, horses, Pet Care, Pets
My own Border Collie cross Badger taught me the importance of combining dog training and animal communication. Dog training on it's own was not enough for this little girl (or us), animal communication quite literally saved her life. This is the story of our journey to discovering this.
Life had become settled and dare I say boring so to spice things up a little we decided to look into getting a puppy! We read dog training manual after dog training manual and the day eventually arrived when we felt we had read enough and we were ready to go get one!
We put everything we had learned into practice from day 1 and wow was she responsive or were we just that good at it?! She picked up all the usual commands with total ease, this was going to be a breeze.
5 weeks later it all changed. This little puppy was showing me her teeth if I went near her bowl, toy or bone - what happened to our wonderful and carefully planned dog training?
The problem went from bad to worse; the showing of teeth happened more and more often until she bit me. This was not only aimed at me but also my husband and anyone she came into contact with. Our not so little puppy was now people and dog aggressive, possessive of her toys and guarded her food. She would also lay in her bed, curled up into a small ball and stare at us. What was she trying to tell us?
Life became very limited to say the least. We could not trust her in any situation any more and the invitations to friends and families with the dogs dwindled to nothing, too many people were understandably now frightened of her. No-one to look after her so that we could have a holiday, days out were limited to a few hours. We were at a total loss as to what to, we could no longer get through to her and we felt she was out of control I guess we all were by this time.
During this period we consulted numerous dog trainers and behaviourists but none could give us any advice that actually changed her behaviour. She was now 1 year old and we were no further forward. If anything, we were going backwards.
Life by now was incredibly stressful. We couldn't carry on living like this, was she going to bite me today? Was she ever going to change? Is this just the way it is always going to be? Can we cope? We just wished we could understand her we knew that one day something serious would happen and then it would all be too late. Re-homing was out of the question as she would never actually leave the rescue centre as she had already displayed aggression. It had been suggested to us that she should be put too sleep for her own good was it time to make that decision?
Around this time, a friend had consulted an Animal Communicator and had had some very good results with her own dogs. Nothing else had worked to this point but we decided to contact an Animal Communicator in one last ditch attempt.
Desperate for our questions to be answered we contacted the recommended Animal Communicator - James French and waited for the insight and understanding of our dog that we so craved.
Our life's were saved! This may sound a dramatic statement but our life's really were saved Badgers and ours! James gave us the insight we needed to eventually start to move forward. He told us what motivated her, what she needed and actually what she didn't need!
After all this time we learned that our dog was not aggressive she was in constant pain as her digestive system was not processing her food, no wonder she didn't like being touched and was so body sensitive.
We also learnt that whilst we knew she was highly anxious and dominant she was mirroring me?! This took a bit of time to sink in to be honest How could this be? How can that happen? I had done everything possible to ensure I was a responsible dog owner Where had I gone so wrong? And then my light bulb moment we were now 3 years on and I was a nervous wreck! The situation with Badger had made me this way and I was keeping us that way time to change!
To cut a long story short, we changed her food to a raw food diet and a lot of the undesired behaviour vanished within a few weeks - AMAZING! I then had to change my own behaviours to enable Badger to change hers.
The first thing to go was my very stressful job, the second change was actually the realisation that I didn't actually have any 'me' time at all. My idea of relaxing was to catch up on the ironing whilst watching the TV. The most important decision was deciding that I wanted to train to be an Animal Communicator too, I just had to get out there and help others who had suffered like us.
I really feel this story is some sort of fairy tale....If we had of given in and taken her to rescue centre she would never have left, if she had had different owners she may have been put to sleep. How many people and dogs were suffering out there? How many dogs were being put to sleep each day, each year just because they cannot be heard?
I am now a very proud fully qualified Animal Communicator! I fulfil my dream everyday of helping humans and their animals share a rewarding and lifelong friendship and I have Badger to thank for this. Dog training on it's own did not work for us however combining Animal Communication and Dog Training together wow, what a powerful combination!
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Written by Rebecca Lowe
using tags: Dogs, horses, Pets
by Malcome Hubert Shatner
Here are some useful horse facts that you might not know:
A hand is the unit of measure for telling how tall a horse is. A hand is four inches, and horses are measured from the ground to the withers, which is the point where their neck joins their shoulder. Most riding horses are between 15 and 16 hands tall. Drafters can be 18 hands tall. Ponies can be 13-14 hands or shorter.
A Pony is not a small horse, it's a separate breed. Baby horses are called foals when they are born. If the foal is a boy, it's a colt. If it's a girl, it's a filly. Once a male is castrated, he is called a gelding. When foals are three years old, the female will be called a mare and the male will be called either a stallion (uncastrated) or a gelding.
Ponies generally only grow to about 13-14 hands, although they can be as tall as 14.3 hands, measured at the withers. Ponies tend to be hardier than their larger counterparts, with more solid hooves. There are different breeds of ponies, just as there are in horses. Some are larger and more sturdy, while others are dainty, and may be more fragile of limb.
Before a horse or pony can be ridden he must be "started", a process that used to be called "breaking". You don't often see cowboys breaking bucking broncos anymore. Nowadays, most horses are started by lungeing around their handler in a circle, on a line called a lunge line or longe line. Gradually, tack or weight is added to his back, and he gets used to the feel of weight on his back. After a good deal of ground work, the first rider of the horse will mount up and let the horse walk around while he becomes accustomed to having someone atop him. Some horses never do get used to this, however - then you might see the cowboy/bronco riding show after all.
After the horse is "broken", he learns the different cues and/or verbal commands that will be used when he is under saddle. Walk, trot, canter and whoa are the most important verbal cues. These are reinforced by the rider's legs on the horse's sides, and his hands connected to the horse's mouth by means of a bit and reins.
Horses spend a good deal of time under saddle before they are taught more advanced maneuvers like dressage moves or jumping. In dressage, the horse is trained to become supple, and very attentive to his rider's cues. In jumping, the trainer will start the horse out with ground poles to develop rhythm, and gradually move the horse along until he can jump small fences. It's wise not to over-fence a young or "green" horse, as it may make them nervous and cause them to stop at the fence, or try to run around it. Neither one of these puts the rider anywhere he wants to be.
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Written by Malcome Hubert Shatner
using tags: animals, horses, Pets
by Amy P. Cunningham
Like old wives' tales, older horsemen have tales of their own. One denotes their dislike of white hooves in horses. Their old saying goes like this. "One white foot, buy him. Two white feet, try him. Three white feet, look well about him. Four white feet, do without him."
White footed horses were regarded with such a contempt that there was one more funny saying "four white feet & a long white nose, knock him on the head & feed him to crows".
Luckily the modern science has proved that the white color of hoofs does not indicate any genetic weakness in a horse. It is just a lack of pigmentation in the hoof wall like the color of our skin and it has nothing to do with lameness.
There are many owners though, that will debate endlessly and passionately about hoof color. Most of those owners are firmly convinced that a horse with white hooves must be shod to maintain soundness and usability. In my time as an equine hoof care provider, I have seen many white footed horses prove that theory wrong.
Horses of different breed have different colored hoofs & the color also varies from one individual horse to another. Some species like Appaloosa & Paint horse have colored stripes on hooves. Some horses of Appaloosa breed have strong hoofs but others are known to have weak hoof walls & other hoof related problems.
The health of the hoof is also influenced by the factors like age, sex & the type of work given to the horse apart from its breed. Good nutritious diet & a trained hoof care provider will also improve the health of hoofs.
Turning your horse out as much as possible, preferably twenty-four hours a day with access to shelter from the sun and elements, will promote the healthiest hoof growth and strength.
In case of white hoofs, the injuries or cracks are more visible than in case of dark colored hoofs. That creates wrong impression that the white hoofs are weaker than the dark hoofs. Actually the science has proved that it is just a difference of level of color pigments & it has nothing to do with strength or health of a hoof. Proper diet, exercise & health care will keep the horse fit & strong and the owner happy.
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Written by Amy P. Cunningham
using tags: animal health, animals, hoof health, horses, how to buy a horse, Pets
by Amy P. Cunningham
There is an old saying among older horsemen, about the color of horse's hooves and the resulting worth of the horse in question. It goes like this: "One white foot buy him. "Two white feet, try him. "Three white feet, look well about him. "Four white feet, do with out him."
White footed horses were regarded with such a contempt that there was one more funny saying "four white feet & a long white nose, knock him on the head & feed him to crows".
Luckily the modern science has proved that the white color of hoofs does not indicate any genetic weakness in a horse. It is just a lack of pigmentation in the hoof wall like the color of our skin and it has nothing to do with lameness.
In my career as a hoof care provider for equines, I can tell you that I have seen many white hoofed horses that have proven that old horsemens' tale wrong. Still, many owners debate heatedly about hoof color, and most are definitely convinced that if their horse has white hooves, they must be shod to prevent lameness and provide usability.
Appaloosa horses have a reputation for either having strong, quality hooves, or their hooves being weak walled and prone to lameness issues. Are you surprised to learn that Appaloosas, along with Paint horses, often have striped hooves? Actually, hoof color just varies. It varies from horse to horse and from breed to breed.
In actual fact, the health of the hoof is determined by several other factors other than breed, age, sex, and job. Having a properly trained hoof care provider is essential to good hoof health, as is proper nutrition for your horse.
Turning your horse out as much as possible, preferably twenty-four hours a day with access to shelter from the sun and elements, will promote the healthiest hoof growth and strength.
In case of white hoofs, the injuries or cracks are more visible than in case of dark colored hoofs. That creates wrong impression that the white hoofs are weaker than the dark hoofs. Actually the science has proved that it is just a difference of level of color pigments & it has nothing to do with strength or health of a hoof. Proper diet, exercise & health care will keep the horse fit & strong and the owner happy.
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- How To Care For Your Horse by Tom Wills Horse care is not easy. It involves monitoring and maintaining your horse's health as well as its emotional, physical and mental well-being. Be sure that you have all the necessary information to care for your horse and keep your horse healthy. Below are a few key aspects......
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Written by Amy P. Cunningham
using tags: animal health, animals, hoof health, horses, how to buy a horse, Pets
by Soo Winter
Having grown up around animals I always enjoyed their company. My Nan's dog Wolf was my brother, my playmate, my protector and I spent hours simply just being with him. I was always safe with Wolf and I knew we understood each other, but I was never aware of communicating with him. Animal communication in those days was an unbelievable concept.
By the age of 10 I was convinced you really could talk to the animals. My bond with them was so close, and I knew they understood me. Having watched the original Dr. Doolittle film staring Rex Harrison, I was convinced I was right.
The film was so beautiful it awoke a deep passion in me. Now I knew who I was going to be. I was going to be like Dr. Doolittle. I would share my life with these amazing creatures and would spend my time talking with them and healing them.
Sadly my hopes were dashed when I shared my ideals with my dad. He looked rather dismayed when he told the film was only a story, not real at all. No one can truly talk to the animals, and they certainly can't hear them.
The years passed, I started training as a medium and then Sullivan, a gorgeous border collie, entered my life. He'd had a bad start in life and had been extremely ill. Sadly his illness had started to affect his behaviour.
Sullivan's long illness had upset the whole family and I was uncertain of the outcome. One night as I sat with him pondering on his future I was suddenly aware of images in my mind; his birth, his mother and his illness.
I was communicating with my dog! Dear little Sullivan had had such an impact on my life he had started me on the path of being an animal communicator. This was his purpose in life, to push through my doubts and show me the truth.
Since then I have started training as an animal communicator and my whole world has changed. To talk to the animals is wonderful. They have so much love to give and willingly share this love with you. I'm on the path now to being a professional animal communicator and all thanks to a very persistent border collie!
About the Author:
Soo Winter is an author and animal helper. Follow this link for your FREE introduction into the fantastic world of animal communication. Discover Animal Communication FREE CD for more general information visit the web-site Reikicare
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Written by Soo Winter
using tags: a, animals, c, Cats, Dogs, e, f, family, h, Home, horses, P, pet, Pets, r, relationship, s, Self Improvement, spirituality
by Maria P. Sanitta
Hippotherapy is a type of therapeutic treatment that uses the presence and movements of horses to treat both children and adults. An organization called The AHA advocates this type of treatment for all different types of patients.
In recent years there has been great expansion of ideas for how animals, such as horses, monkeys and even miniature horses can be used as service animals for people, in addition to the traditional use of dogs. Even dogs are now being trained for assistance to new populations of humans needing their help. This therapy joins in those new ideas to provide both promising and exciting therapies.
There are a number of major issues including cerebral palsy, developmental delays, autism spectrum disorders, learning disorders, sensory integration dysfunction, and strokes or other physical impairments, which improve when people use this treatment.
This therapy works by focusing on how the person's mind and body works with and is impacted by the movements of the animal. It's very different from therapeutic riding where horsemanship and riding skills are taught to the rider.
In observations of therapy sessions, they have often aided with improvement in the areas of communication, posture, motor control and balance. This may be because of the rhythmic movements of the horses.
Therapists usually use this therapy as one component in a treatment plan for the patient, and while using this therapy, may invoke the discipline of occupational therapist, physical therapist, and even a speech language pathologist to further the therapy goals through these sessions. There's really no such thing as a true animal therapist, as all these skills are used.
Horses in these programs have been screened to provide information regarding their behavior and temperament, as well as trained to be members of the therapy team. Because each patient brings individual needs to his or her sessions, horses must be very solid and sound. Some horses have been rescued from unsavory situations; others have been trained for other equine professions prior to becoming therapy horses.
As more and more people become aware of the tremendous benefits of this therapy for a huge range of individuals, there will be more need for these programs. Already these clinics and facilities throughout the country have waiting lists, some quite lengthy. The benefits of this form of therapy are nothing short of miraculous for some, and it is hoped that this movement will continue to grow.
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Written by Maria P. Sanitta
using tags: animals, horse riding, horses, Pets, ponies, therapy
by Arnold L. Polo
The feeding of horses is a vital component in helping them to have the best possible health. While horses and ponies do graze , which provides part of their diet, you will need to provide forage feed for them. Forage feed aids in proper digestion and will help your horses to be in the best overall health.
While food requirements for horses and ponies can vary depending on age and how active they are, in general it is best to have them take in an amount equal to 2 percent of their body weight each day. About 50 percent of the horses diet ought to be composed of forage feed.
For optimal health, a horse would need to eat all forage feed. Owners can do some research on feed ingredients to find the feed with the higher quality ingredients for your horse.
For older horses, or horses with lower activity levels, it is necessary to keep them on a diet of forage feed alone. For horses which consume just grass, they will still need to get forage feed additionally during the colder months of the year. For breeding horses and working horses extra forage food will probably be needed.
It is important to remember that a horse or pony that has exercise and then rest days will need less food during the rest to prevent Azoturia. All changes in feed should be avoided at this time.
Feed time is also an important factor in the horse or pony's health. There should be a regular feeding time. Time should be given after exercise before the horse is fed.
The horse's heart may be strained or the horse may develop breathing problems if exercised on a full stomach. Wait a few hours after a horse or pony has been exercised before feeding.
Finally, water needs to be accessible for your horse at any time. As an owner you might wish to add to your horse's diet with supplements like seaweed, bran, or salt. Some owners give cod liver oil, fruit, or maize as well. If you follow the above guidelines for the feeding and care of your horse, you will be rewarded with a happy and healthy horse.
About the Author:
read additional information about caring for horses at my website. There you will read all about feed, treats and even desease such as copd Don't reprint this exact article. Instead, reprint a free unique content version of this same article.
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Written by Arnold L. Polo
using tags: animals, horses, pet food, Pets, ranches, stables
by Maria P. Clyver
Food and care for horse forage feed is necessary for the proper functioning of their digestive system as it is the horse's most natural diet. A horse usually consumes about 2% or more of their body weight in feed each day although an individual horse's nutritional requirement will vary depending on their age, weight and activity.
Beets can be a good nutritional additive for some equines . Pelleted feed - Examining feed pellets vs. traditional horse food. antioxidant nutrients are to given to the horse .Ideally at least half, preferably all, of a horse's daily feed should be made up of forage feed. As forage feed is such an important factor in any horse's diet consideration should always be to quality providing the highest quality forage feed available.
Simply put, forage feed it is grass or hay. Land with plenty of grass provides enough forage where hay is not necessary. If your pasture has limited grass growth, always make hay available to the horse. During winter time, hay is a key ingredient to keeping the horses body temperature up. The highest quality forage feed should be made available to your horse. We know that a horse consumers about 2% or more of their body weight in feed each day - so the proper portions and nutrition is paramount. As you will read below, nutritional supplements in the right portions are great additions to forage feed.
The addition of barley should also be considered -- especially in the winter time. Barley provides great nutrition and can be a substitute when grass is sparse. Make sure the barley is unrolled and un-crushed. Soak the Barley in water for two hours prior to feeding.
Of course, there are are oats and sweet feed. Oats are a common food source and of great nutritional value. Sweet feed generally consists of oats, corn and pellets. The healthy mixture is then topped with molasses, a flavor which horses love.
When should a horse be given these supplements? If you have a mature horse with minimal activity should thrive on good quality forage without a need for supplements. Most horses with a good pasture will benefit from supplemental forage during the winter months. If you feed working horses, stabled horses, and growing or breeding horses, it is a good idea to considered additional feed.
All horses should always have access to water. This is most important just prior to feeding. Feeding times should be at regular intervals and the horse should be given a few hours to digest prior to strenuous exercise. Horses should not exercise just after a feeding, as this can contribute to respiratory and cardiac problems. In addition, a horse should never be fed directly after an intense workout.
Ration balancers (also sometimes called diet balancers) are nutrient dense feeds meant to be fed in small amounts. They are an ideal base to most feed programs. Hopefully this quick look at the types of horse feed available has helped clear up some of the confusion at the feed store. Sweet feeds are feeds that have added sugar to make them more palatable to the horse. Usually the sugar is added in the form of molasses. The high sugar and starch content in these feeds can be the cause of behavioral issues and health problems.
About the Author:
Are you yearning to live with horses on a daily basis? Come visit our website and read all about the the fun and not so fun areas of horse care. There you can read about horse food, horse workouts, and even horse games Get a totally unique version of this article from our article submission service
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Written by Maria P. Clyver
using tags: games, horse exercise, horse food, horse games, horse health, horses, Pets
by Riche Goldmann
Horseback riding is very pleasant but its important to take safety measures so you and your horse will be protected from injury. One of the things you should do when you ride a horse is wear a helmet. A helmet should fit correctly so it will stay on your head if you would fall. Equestrian helmets are specifically made to protect the back of your head. Make sure your helmet meets appropriate safety standards and is ASTM/SEI certified. The chance of head injury is much lower when you wear a proper helmet.
It is imperative that you wear the right shoes on your feet when horseback riding. Sneakers, tennis shoes, sandals, or barefoot, are no way to go when it's time to ride your horse. You need a good sturdy boot or shoe with a heel. This will keep your feet from sliding around in the stirrups and will help you be able to move your foot around in the event of an accident.
Saddling your horse properly is another thing that you must know in order to avoid injury to you and your horse. Protect your horse's back first by putting a saddle pad on first. Be certain that is covers the majority of your horse's back, especially the part you will be riding on. Then place the saddle gently on the horse's back. Make sure that is centered on the horse's spine and that you do not let the buckles hit the horse's legs as this may cause him to kick or run away. Make sure that your horse is comfortable with the position of the saddle before fastening the saddle to him. Fasten safely and securely to the horse so that it isn't too tight, but that it isn't going to move.
Lots of accidents happen at the mounting and dismounting of a horse. Therefore, it is important that you are very careful when getting on and off of your horse. Using a mounting block can help you a lot. It can help you to get your balance and decreases the distance between the ground and the top of the horse, making it easier for you to get on. It also puts less pressure on the horse's back, making the mounting process much easier for him as well.
Have fun and ride safe. Follow these tips for riding your horse, and you will definitley decrease your chances of a horse riding accident.
About the Author:
Riche Goldmann is a horse owner and lover and has riden in a number of semi-professional equestrian competitions. He buys all of his horse grooming and saddle products from Tractor Supply. He is also an equestrian instructor and recommends his students purchase their supplies from the Tractor Supply Company.
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Written by Riche Goldmann
using tags: horseback riding safety, horses, Pets
by Arnold L. Polo
The feeding of horses is a vital component in helping them to have the best possible health. While horses and ponies do graze , which provides part of their diet, you will need to provide forage feed for them. Forage feed aids in proper digestion and will help your horses to be in the best overall health.
While food requirements for horses and ponies can vary depending on age and how active they are, in general it is best to have them take in an amount equal to 2 percent of their body weight each day. About 50 percent of the horses diet ought to be composed of forage feed.
For optimal health, a horse would need to eat all forage feed. Owners can do some research on feed ingredients to find the feed with the higher quality ingredients for your horse.
The type of feed and necessary supplements will depend on whether the horse is working and its age. If the horse is a senior or is not a working horse, then it is not necessary to add supplements. If the horse is fed only grass, then it should receive a supplement of forage feed in the winter. Working, breeding or stabled horses should receive more feed in their diet.
It is important to remember that when a horse or pony is on an alternating exercise and rest schedule, it needs less food during the rest days to prevent Azoturia. It is also important to remember that changes in feed should be avoided at this time.
Feed time is also an important factor in the horse or pony's health. There should be a regular feeding time. Time should be given after exercise before the horse is fed.
The horse's heart may be strained or the horse may develop breathing problems if exercised on a full stomach. Wait a few hours after a horse or pony has been exercised before feeding.
Lastly, water should be available at all times. The horse owner may decide to supplement with things like salt, seaweed and bran. Others have been known to feed some fruit, maize, or cod liver oil. If the horse owner stays true to these feeding techniques, they are sure to have a healthy horse.
About the Author:
Read more about living with horses at my website. There you can Read all about feed, treats and even illness such as copd Grab a totally unique version of this article from the Uber Article Directory
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Written by Arnold L. Polo
using tags: animals, horses, pet food, Pets, ranches, stables
by Paul Hubert Comberdale
This breed of horse was originally bred in England due to the English horsemens desire to have a fast race horse. There are three that founded this bloodline which are: Byerley Turk, Darley Arabian and Godolphin Arabian, named after their respective owners, Thomas Darley, Lord Godolphin and Captain Robert Byerley. All of these stallions were imported to England from the Mediterranean Middle East between 1670 and 1710. The result was an animal that could carry weight with sustained speeds over extended distances. Approximately ninety percent of modern thoroughbreds have descended from Eclipse whose grandsire was Darley Arabian, who was never beaten in eighteen races.
This began a very selective breeding process which has been going on for nearly 250 years. Bringing up the better stallions to the most estimable female horse* to produce quick racehorses, affording them favourable position and excellence being established on the racecourse.
Around the turn of the 1700s, breeding records for Thoroughbreds were sparse and usually incomplete, and many times, they would not name a horse until the young horse had proven them self worthy. A gentleman named James Weatherby, through his own research and hard work and by the consolidation of his own privately kept pedigree records published the first volume of the General Stud Book. This was done in 1791. The first publication listed 387 mares, each of which could trace back to Eclipse. The General Studbook is still published in England by Weatherby and Sons, Secretaries to The English Jockey Club.
Some years later later, as thoroughbred racing proliferated in North America the need for a pedigree registry for American Bred Thoroughbreds, similar to the General Stud Book became apparent. In 1873, the first American Stud Book was published by Colonel Sanders D. Bruce. This man spent almost a lifetime researching the pedigrees of American Thoroughbreds. He followed the pattern of the General Stud Book producing six volumes of the register until 1896 when the project was taken over by The Jockey Club. The integrity of the American Stud Book is the foundation on which all Thoroughbred racing in North America Depends.
The first publication of the American Stud Book by The Jockey Club had a foal crop of around 3,000. In 1986 in had grown to an astonish 51,000. Today The Jockey Club runs an elaborate new computer technology to meet the registration challenges posed by the gigantic number of annual registrations. The Jockey Club owns and operates one of the most sophisticated computer operations in the world today, with its database holding more than 1.8 million horses on a master pedigree file, with names that trace back to the 1800s. This is quite impressive genealogy. As well as bloodlines, this computer system also handles daily racing results of every Thoroughbred race in North America, as well as the ability to process electronically submitted pedigree and racing data from England, Ireland, France and other leading Thoroughbred countries.
Another descendant of Darley Arabian is Diomed; he won the first running of the Kentucky Derby in 1780. When he was twenty one years old he was brought to the United States where he produced the male line through his son, Sir Archie.
The most world renowned horse race is the Kentucky Derby, being the first race of the Triple Crown. The Preakness and The Belmont follow this historical racing event. Thoroughbreds are the horse of choice for track racing. Most thoroughbreds are born between January and April, but their official date of birth is January 1 of the current year. During their first year of growth, they are developing size and power with the youngster beginning his training as a yearling. The horse learns to accept a bridle and a saddle and soon after a rider on his back to break the horse and prepare him for the starting gate and the run around the track.
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Written by Paul Hubert Comberdale
using tags: horse, horses, Pets, race horse, race horses
by Anne Katherine
When searching through saddles for sale, it is a good idea to know the parts that make up a horse saddle so that you can have a checklist for which parts you need to evaluate before making your purchase. Though they have some differences, western saddles and English saddles have many things in common.
The Anatomy of a Saddle
Knowing the right terminology will definitely benefit you when shopping for saddles. If you can distinguish between the different parts of a saddle you will have an easier time communicating with the seller. A little extra vocabulary can make your browsing through saddles for sale a much smoother experience.
The "tree" is the part that all saddles for sale are constructed of. It is a basic skeleton that is made of wood, steel or other man-made materials.
The "pommel" on the saddle is the front bump which keeps the rider from moving forward on the horse's back. Western saddles have horns coming out of their pommels.
The "skirt" is available in both round and square. Lays over the are where the stirrups connect to the rest of the saddle.
The "seat" is where the rider sits. You may have already guessed this. But I'm mentioning it in case you were afraid to ask.
The "cantle" is like the pommel of the saddle, except it is in the rear and is usually less padded.
The "stirrups" are usually metal hoops where the rider rest his or her feet.
The "billets" are straps on the saddle which connect to the girth that is used to essentially tie the saddle to the horse's back.
English saddle parts:
The "saddle flaps" on a saddle are leather strips that lay between the horse's side and the rider's leg.
These components are found on western saddles:
The "fenders" on a western saddle are similar to saddle flaps on an English saddle but are usually a more slender strip of leather.
These are not the only parts you will find on a horse saddle. In fact, you may find other parts on a number of saddles for sale that concern your purchase that are not listed here. But these basics will help you to get started navigating saddles in general and lead you on your way to a smarter buy.
About the Author:
About the Author, Anne Katherine knows a lot when it comes to saddles for sale. See other blogs by her elsewhere on the web if you like what you see here.
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- The Two Main Types of Saddles For Sale: English And Western? by Jodie Daisy There are two main types of saddles for sale, english and western saddles. With so many different saddles for sale, it is helpful to know a quick way to distinguish between english and western saddles, the horn that is found on western saddles. Another easily noticeable and......
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Written by Anne Katherine
using tags: barrel racing, cattle farms, cow horses, english saddles for sale, Farming, hobbies, horse saddles for sale, horseback riding, horses, Pets, ranching, saddles for sale, show horses, western saddles for sale
by Jodie Daisy
There are two main types of saddles for sale, english and western saddles. With so many different saddles for sale, it is helpful to know a quick way to distinguish between english and western saddles, the horn that is found on western saddles. Another easily noticeable and distinguishing feature is that western saddles are usually more robust and rugged than english saddles.
Which saddle is best for regular riding?
Western saddles are built to be comfortable for the horse and its owner. Western saddles are built bigger to spread the weight more evenly across the animal's back. These saddles are usually constructed out of rawhide to ensure longer-lasting comfort on long and arduous cattle drives. Although many modern saddles for sale are built from synthetic and lighter materials other than leather, sheepskin and wool.
If you look at all the available horse saddles for sale, you will find there is also a difference in Western saddles that are made for pleasure or work. The balance of the saddle and the horn may be different depending upon the purpose for which you are buying the saddle. Jumping saddles allow the rider closer contact with the horse. Providing a better seating for the rider during jumps, the English saddle is not as deep as the Western saddle.
The Differences
English saddles weigh less than western saddles. They also have steel stirrups. English saddles also come with flexible cinching to let the horse breathe more freely. English saddles do not have fenders. That is why it us necessary to wear tall riding boots to protect your legs.
The Western saddle has fenders to help keep your legs from being pinched. In addition the stirrups are wrapped in raw hide and are wider at the bottom where your foot goes. The Western saddle has a surrounding support called scurrying. This should not be turned up at any of the corners. Keep a watch for this when you are looking at saddles for sale, because it affects the support.
Trail Saddles and Show Saddles
A lot of english saddles are intended for lighter riding. An all purpose saddle works for show riding and pleasure riding. You will discover that most saddles for sale are a bit expensive, so it is a good idea to know what you will be using your saddle for before you buy one.
Trail saddles and show saddles also have different constructions. Wooden trees covered in fiberglass or ralide are generally used for western saddles. These may also be crafted with rawhide. Synthetic lighter saddles are covered in leather or other skin. Show saddles also come with detailed embellishments including silver and other precious metal lacing.
English saddles are constructed on a steel-reinforced laminated tree or a synthetic tree. The covers are leather or synthetic and are not adorned as the Western saddles. The English saddles used to be stuffed with horse hair but today the stuffing is typically foam.
Shopping for Saddles
Buying a cheap saddle is not usually a great idea. Remember that you get what you pay for. And you may have to replace a cheaper saddle as many times as it would have cost to buy a better one. Cheaper saddles can also fit your horse improperly and sour its attitude during performance. If you save money on the saddle but irritate your horse, you haven't done yourself any favors.
Skilled stitching also comes at a price. You don't want your new saddle falling apart at the seams soon after you buy it or put a little wear and tear on it. This will also lead to a poor fit, once again causing your horse more grief.
Whether an english or western saddle is right for you, be sure to choose a saddle that is well-made. It may be a bit of an investment up front, but in the end, it will be well worth it. And you will enjoy riding much, much more.
About the Author:
Author: Jodie Daisy would love to share information about saddles for sale with everyone online who has any inquiries regarding a new saddle purchase.
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Written by Jodie Daisy
using tags: barrel racing, cattle farms, cow horses, english saddles, Farming, hobbies, horse saddles, horseback riding, horses, Pets, ranching, saddles for sale, show horses, western saddles
by William Owen James Thompson
The Arabian horse is a mighty horse bread which has developed in the Arabian Peninsula for the past couple of thousand years. The horses reflect all that is good in horses; strength, bravery, beauty and endurance.
The Bedouins were a nomadic people who are given credit for first taming the Arabian horse. The Bedouins made every effort to protect the purity of these horses, and many could trace back the lineage of the horses they owned. During this time, it was critical to have a horse which was strong, fast, and courageous. It also had to be capable of surviving in the desert environment. The Bedouin tribes were constantly at war with other tribes in the region, and it was necessary to have a horse which could lead them into battle.
The Bedouins are renowned as some of the greatest horse masters in the world. They have a proved history of breeding some of the greatest horses in the world. Bedouins were saught our for trades and this caused the Bedouins to be go through something of a boom time. The mighty Arabian has been used to create new breeds including the Kuhaylan.
The Arabian horse of one of the most well known breeds in the world. Their heads are shaped like wedges, and they have large eyes and a small muzzle. Arabian horses which have a concave shaped nose are highly prized. The neck of an Arabian horse should be arched, and their legs should be muscular and lean. Their coat should be shiny, and can be likened to silk. Despite this, Arabian horses are often not seen at the highest levels of show jumping competitions, because it does not have a good bascule compared to other breeds.
Most Arabian horses have a coat which is grey or brown, and some horses also have black coats. Arabian horses with black coats were rare, because in the desert they would absorb heat, and this would be dangerous. Because the Arabian horse is so genetically pure, it is commonly used in enhancing the characteristics of other breeds of horses. Arabian horses have a good temperament, and this also makes them attractive to breeders.
Arabian horses have been used in professional horse competitions for a long time, and Arabian horse games are being held every year in which the horses and their owners can compete with each other.
About the Author:
Before think about buying a horse online, make sure you check out some more great articles on Horse Searchers, including articles on Andalusian Horses, and Driving Horses
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Written by William Owen James Thompson
using tags: animals, equestrian, faming, horse breeding, horses, Pets, ponies
by Riche Goldmann
Horses demand more than just a casual feeding and brushing. Just ask any horse owner or veterinarian and they will quickly tell you that these animals require a great deal of care and patience. The upkeep and maintenance for large animals can be overwhelming if you do not make them part of your daily routine. Here are 7 Simple horse grooming tips that any horse lover will find helpful.
Cleaning the hooves of your horse is one of your main duties. Hoof picks are inexpensive and these should always be a tool that you have on hand. You can routinely check the hooves of a horse every day and use this to dislodge any small pebbles or other debris that is found. These types of things can ruin the hooves and feet of these animals. If you do not clean the hooves regularly it can create a painful situation for your horse, and you run the risk of the animal going lame or becoming victim to infections.
Wash your horse's face. Humans wash their faces after any rigorous exercise that causes sweat and horses should be treated the same way. Sweat, moisture, and dampness can build up on a horse's face and cause fungal infection of not removed properly. Many times the horse's face is forgotten, but this is an awful mistake. Do not use a sweat scraper on your horse, but rather a horse-specific squeegee. These tools are softer and work better with your horse's face as it ensures that the experience is pleasurable and painless for your horse. Squeegees also help avoid any unnecessary hair loss from your horse's face.
Using a different sponge, you must also clean the rest of the horse's body. It is really important that you don't use the same sponge you used on the horse's face as you could cause cross contamination, which could cause disease and illness, especially on your horse's face.
A horse's tail is a lot like a girl's ponytail and should be washed, conditioned, and detangled weekly. Brushing should occur daily if possible in addition to the weekly tasks listed above. If you would like, you may utilize a tail bag to keep the tail protected and detangled, but you must be sure to tie the bag below the horse's tail bone. If you manage the tail on a daily basis, you will prevent snarls and sores from developing and you will also have a happier horse.
If your horse has a coat that is a darker shade, it is important to keep your horse out of the bright sun when he's not participating in activities. Therefore, you must provide some much needed shade. This will help to prevent their coat from fading or changing colors. Also, after a sweat ride or exercise activity, you should rinse your horse off with water before sending him out into the sun again. The salt in the sweat could increase the rate of the fading process. However, a simple rinsing could prevent this from happening.
Don't forget that over bathing your horse can be just as bad as not bathing him at all. So do not over shampoo or wash your horse; you can create a dull look for his coat. You should at most be bathing your horse once a week with shampoos and soaps.
Coat polishing sprays are great to use on your horse after you've given him a bath. When you use coat polishing sprays, your horse's coat will really shine. Moreover, your horse's coat will be protected from any dust build up that commonly causes skin infections and allergies.
Following these 7 grooming tips will not only improve the overall health and happiness of your horse, but will keep him looking good too.
About the Author:
Riche Goldmann is a horse owner who participates in various trail rides all across the country. He purchases grooming supplies for his horse from Tractor Supply. He recommends the Tractor Supply Company for all those needing supplies for their horses, as they always offer great prices on all goods.
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Written by Riche Goldmann
using tags: horse grooming, horse health, horse maintenance, horses, Pets
by Riche Goldmann
Horses demand more than just a casual feeding and brushing. Just ask any horse owner or veterinarian and they will quickly tell you that these animals require a great deal of care and patience. The upkeep and maintenance for large animals can be overwhelming if you do not make them part of your daily routine. Here are 7 Simple horse grooming tips that any horse lover will find helpful.
To begin with, clean the hooves of your horse. Horse hooves, just like human feet, are extremely important and require cleaning almost on a daily basis. Buy a hoof pick, which is inexpensive, and use it to pick out any small pebbles or other debris that may have gotten stuck inside. Dirty hooves can ruin the feet of your animal as they create painful situations for them potentially causing infections or your horse to be unable to walk.
Making sure to wash and clean the face of a horse after a ride or other exercise is necessary in order to prevent hair loss and infections that can occur from fungal infections. Dampness, moisture and sweat can damage the coat of your horse, and sometimes the face of the animal is forgotten. Instead of using the rigid sweat scrapers to remove water from the hips and legs of a horse, you should use the Squeegees that are made specifically for horses. This is more comfortable for the animal and it really does a better job. Using these products can also help you avoid scraping away bits of hair from the animals body.
Using a different sponge, you must also clean the rest of the horse's body. It is really important that you don't use the same sponge you used on the horse's face as you could cause cross contamination, which could cause disease and illness, especially on your horse's face.
The tail of a horse requires the same kind of maintenance as a girl's hair. It must be washed, conditioned, and detangled weekly. The tail should also be brushed everyday to prevent serious tangling and to prevent snarls and sores on your horse. If you want, you can use a tail bag to protect your horse's tail, but be certain to tie the bag below the horse's tail bone.
Horses with darker coats need to spend time in the shade, outside of the sun. The sun can turn their coats a different shade and cause damage. It is also important that your horse be rinsed with water after coming from an intense ride, or after a rigorous exercise activity. The salt in the sweat can also speed up the fading process and cause damage to the coat of your horse. However the rinsing will stop this and is something very simple for any horse owner to do.
Remember that bathing your horse is part of good grooming, but you need to exercise caution. If you give him too many shampoos you can create a dull coat. Regular bathing with soaps and shampoos should be a once a week process at most.
Using a spray made for coat polishing should be done after you have bathed your horse. When you use this product it will make the coat shine and it prevents dust from adhering to the hairs. Less dust means a healthier coat on your horse and decreases the risk of skin infections and allergies.
Following these 7 grooming tips will not only improve the overall health and happiness of your horse, but will keep him looking good too.
About the Author:
Riche Goldmann is a horse owner who participates in various trail rides all across the country. He purchases grooming supplies for his horse from Tractor Supply. He recommends the Tractor Supply Company for all those needing supplies for their horses, as they always offer great prices on all goods.
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Written by Riche Goldmann
using tags: horse grooming, horse health, horse maintenance, horses, Pets
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