Colic is the most commonly occuring serious horse illness, affecting at least 1 in 10 horses each year. It is the single biggest cause of premature horse death and also the most frequent source of major veterinary bills. In addition, it can cause other serious illnesses, such as laminitis or founder.

Colic is not a single illness but rather a group of related illnesses affecting the digestive system. As such, there are many different types of horse colic and various different causes. Extensive research, covering thousands of case studies, has identified the main causes of the various types of colic. Following is a list of actions to avoid the primary causes of colic and thereby greatly reduce the risk of your horse developing colic.

1) Frequent Feedings. Horses have evolved to graze throughout the day. The more frequently they eat, the healthier their digestive system.

2) High-Volume Foods. Horses have evolved on high-volume and high-fiber foods such as grass. Although one can feed energy-dense foods such as grain or musli, they should not be the main component of the horse's diet. When feeding both hay and grain, the hay should be first and then the grain, as this results in better digestion and reduced bolting of food.

3) Soak Pellets. Pelleted food (e.g. hay pellets) should be soaked before feeding. This prevents bolting and choke. In addition, unsoaked pellets can greatly expand when they enter the stomach, resulting in bloating.

4) Secure the Feedroom. The feedroom should be locked or have a horse-proof latch to prevent horses from getting in and gorging themselves. Excessive feeding, especially on grain and similar foods, can result in colic. It can also cause laminitis or founder.

5) Prevent Bolting. A horse may bolt (swallow without chewing) its food, potentially resulting in colic. This may be simply greed or a bad habit, but can also be due to medical issues such as dental problems. If your horse bolts, discuss with your vet how to correct this problem.

6) Sand and Dirt. Make sure that your horse does not ingest sand or dirt, as this can result in impaction colic. Do not feed them on top of sandy or dirt surfaces. Avoid over-grazed pastures.

6) Water. A horse which does not drink enough is prone to colic. Likewise, a horse that has not had access to water and then suddenly drinks a very large quantity. Ensure that your horse has access to water throughout the day. During winter, water should be warmed, as most horses will greatly reduce their water intake if it is too cold. After exercising a horse, allow it to drink but limit the quantity until it has cooled down.

7) De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.
Exercise. Horses which receive regular moderate exercise are less likely to develop colic. In particular, access to a large pasture during the day provides useful exercise. If starting or changing an exercise regime, changes should be gradual as rapid increases in the duration or intensity of exercise can result in colic.

9) Eating Bedding. Many horses eat bedding, particularly straw bedding. If your horse ingests a large amount of bedding, especially inedible beddings (such as wood shavings), change to a bedding type which they don't eat.

10) Temperature. A horse that becomes chilled is likely to develop colic. This is particularly true if there is a sudden drop in temperature. If a horse is likely to be chilled (e.g. old, weak, sick, shaved, short coat, unaccustomed to cold) then they need to be protected during extreme weather. The use of a rug should be considered. During extremely cold weather, especially if wet and windy, it may be adviseable to confine weaker horses to their stables.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the author of Horse Colilc, which examines the causes and prevention of horse colic. He also writes on other Horse Health issues.

categories: horse,horses,equine,colic,horse colic

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Written by Doug Stewart using tags: colic, equine, horse, horse colic, horses, Pets

Cribbing is one of the various bad habits which horses can develop. It appears to develop as a result of boredom, in particular when a horse is confined to a stall for most of the day and has never been observed in horses which live in a natural environment (e.g. pasture based). With cribbing, the horse grabs an object (e.g. fence rail or feeding trough) with its front teeth, then arches its neck while pulling on the item, then sucks in air. Although the reason for this activity has not been proven, it is believed that the horse does it because it results in the release of brain chemicals (such as endorphins) which are pleasurable. The terms 'crib biting' and 'wind sucking' are also used.

Cribbing is sometimes mistaken for 'wood chewing', which is a different behavioral problem. In wood chewing the horse nibbles on wood to occupy itself whereas in cribbing the horse sucks in air to trigger the release of endorphin brain chemicals. Both damage wood, but the physical activity and the purpose are completely different. If you watch your horse or examine the damaged wood carefully, it should be clear which of these two problems your horse has.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse's teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Ideally, one should prevent the development of the cribbing behavior by providing the horse with as natural and interesting environment as possible. Once a horse has cribbing, the situation is more difficult, but one can greatly reduce the frequency of cribbing by providing a mentally stimulating environment. The first step is to provide as much pasture time as possible. One should also make the feeding regime as natural as possible, consisting of pasture grass if possible and hay as a second choice; foods such as grains which can be quickly eaten with minimum chewing are the least desirable. In addition, many small feeds are preferable to a few large feeds, as this helps break up the day. Any other activities which provide interest, such as exercise and grooming, will make a positive contribution.

The above actions are normally quite successful in reducing the amount of cribbing. Unfortunately, once the habit is established, merely providing a good environment will not in itself cure the habit. One also needs to take steps to physically prevent cribbing. There are a number of options here; none of them are successful with every horse so you may need to try different ones until you find one that works with your horse and situation.

One of the most common approaches is a 'cribbing strap', also known as a 'cribbing collar', which is a strap that fits around the neck with a mental plate on the underside to make it uncomfortable for the horse to swell its neck to suck air. Another device is the use of a muzzle, which allows the horse to eat but prevents it from grasping items with its teeth. One can also put a live (under current) fencing wire along fence rails to prevent the horse from grabbing the rails, or paint the rails with an unpleasant tasting paint (a number of veterinary approved products are available). In some cases, certain medications (in particular, anti-depressants) are helpful. Finally, if all else fails, there is a surgical solution.

One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.

This article on Horses Cribbing was written by Duber Stewart, the owner of Horses For Sale

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Written by Duber Stewart using tags: horse, horse behavior, horse behaviours, horse care, horse crib biting, horse cribbing, horse wind sucking, horses, Pets

If you are looking for a free (or very inexpensive) horse, one of the best places to look is rescue associations, or animal rescue groups which also deal with horses. These associations take on horses but have limited resources to take care of them in terms of space (stalls, pasture), money (food, bedding, etc.) and staff time (mucking out, general care). Consequently, they are normally looking for good homes to pass the horses onto, so that they can free up their scare resources to care for others. Therefore, they will usually pass the horses on for free, or for a nominal amount (to recover some of their direct costs).

In addition to getting a horse very cheaply, you are also doing a good deed by adopting the horse. In so doing, you free up the rescue association's resources, allowing them to take on other animals.

The rescue association will want to know that any horse they pass on will be well taken care of, so expect an interview prior to the association agreeing to give you a horse. They will want to know that there are proper facilities (e.g. box, paddock, fields) for the horse. You will also need to demonstrate that you have the personal commitment, time and money to properly take care of the horse.

There may be a number of horses available. Before choosing one, it is advisable to learn as much about it and its background as possible. This will help you identify any potential issues such as health problems or behavioral issues. You should ask about the results of their veterinary examinations of the horse and also the opinions of the staff caring for the horse.

It is also useful to discuss why the horse has been rescued. If it was merely a financial issue (e.g. the owner lost his job and could no longer afford the horse) then there is a good chance that the horse has no major issues. On the other hand, if the horse was rescued because it was abused or neglected, one should determine the exact nature of the problem and whether this could have longer term behavioral or health implications.

It is also important to be clear about your requirements. If you are looking for a companion horse, then age and riding ability are not that important. However, if you intend to ride the horse regularly, then it should be reasonably young and fit, preferably well trained as well. It may be that the rescue centre does not have a horse which meets your requirements. In this case, rather than compromise on your requirements, it is best to wait. Make sure that the staff know that you will provide a good home for the right horse, and provide in writing both your requirements and your contact information. Given the frequency with which horses are rescued, it is quite likely that the horse you are looking for will become available in a few weeks or months, unless your requirements are unusual.

Duber Stewart authored Free Horse and is the owner of Buy a Horse.

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Written by Duber Stewart using tags: animals, horse, horses, Pets, rescue

There are many horse breeds (hundreds) but they all fall into one of three categories: warm blood, cold blood or hot blood.

The breeds making up the cold blood category originated mainly from Europe, where they were the result of breeding programs to produce horses that could work long hours each day, doing heavy work such as pulling plows, barges or carts. For these tasks there was little need for speed but they were required to have both strength and endurance. Consequently, these breeds developed with large muscular bodies, heavy bone structures and big joints. They also were bred to have a quiet and obedient nature, so that they would obey commands and work long hours without complaint and without risk of them spooking and running off. To deal with the cold winters, they had heavy coats and manes.

Hot bloods originated mainly from the middle-east and other warm climates, where they were used for racing and riding. Instead of the cold breed qualities of power and docility, the hot bloods were bred for speed or distance riding, so had lighter legs and bodies. Due to the warmth of their native climates, they had shorter hair in their coats, manes and tails. Likewise, their blood vessels are nearer the skin surface to allow heat to be dissipated better. In temperament they are energetic and spirited, with a desire to run. Perhaps the best known breeds in this category are the Arabian (ancestor of many modern hot blood breeds) and the Thoroughbred (also used as part of the breeding program for many other breeds).

The warm blood breeds (also known as warmbloods) are between the hot and cold bloods both physically and in terms of their nature. In fact, many of the warmblood breeds are the result of mating hot bloods and cold bloods to develop a new breed with the positive characteristics of both. Their build is athletic, providing both speed and endurance, but without the power of a cold breed or the pure speed of a hot blood. They have a calm nature and are generally intelligent, making they easily trainable for sports such as show jumping and dressage. Although bred for a variety of duties in the past (such as war horses and carriage horses), today they are mainly used for sport and pleasure riding. The Friesian and Hanoverian are examples of warm breeds

The categories cold, warm and hot has nothing to do with the temperature of the horses (all horses have a normal temperature of about 38C) or their blood. Instead, it refers to the origin of the breeds (cold or hot climates), their build (heavy or athletic) and their character (calm or spirited).

Over the past hundred years we've seen machines replace much of the functions of horses, with farm and other equipment taking over the function of cold bloods, while modern transport has taken over the traditional employment of warmbloods. Fortunately, sports and pleasure riding have grown to partly fill this gap, with different types of activities suited to each category. In addition, even for pleasure riding, the preferred horse type depends on what you want to do. For pure speed it is the hot blood, for complex sports such as show jumping it is the warmblood, while the cold blood's calm and reliable nature make it a favorite with many children and less confident adults.

As the owner of Horses For Sale Duber Stewart writes new articles weekly such as Warmblood and Cold Blood Horses and other horse related topics

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Written by Duber Stewart using tags: cold blood, cold blood horse, coldblood, coldblood horse, horse, horses, Pets, warm blood, warmblood, warmblood horse

Wood chewing is a common horse problem which not only damages wood but can also injure your horse. The splinters can get stuck in the teeth or gums of the horse. If swallowed, they could puncture the stomach or intestines. Consequently, to protect your horse and your property, one should correct this habit as soon as possible.

One first needs to check that the problem is wood chewing and not cribbing. Both activities are similar in that they involve the horse biting and damaging wood, but they are completely different problems. Wood chewing is exactly that; the horse chews on wood (e.g. in its stall or wooden fencing). With cribbing the horse does not chew on the wood but instead grabs it with its front teeth, then arches its neck and sucks in air. If you watch the horse, you can easily see which of the two problems it has, as the two activities are completely different. If you can't catch the horse in the act, examination of the wood should tell you, as one needs to check if the wood has been nibbled away or simply bitten hard.

In the case of wood chewing, the most common cause is boredom, typically with horses which are left in their stalls much of the day. In some cases, wood chewing can be the result of stress, with the horse using wood chewing to distract itself (in somewhat the say way as certain people chew their fingernails when under stress). The third possible cause is a mineral deficiency, resulting in the horse chewing on wood or eating earth in an attempt to find the missing minerals.

The first step in fixing the problem is to address the underlying cause. Since it is not always possible to know which of the three possible causes is the problem, the easiest solution is to address all three. Provide the horse with as much pasture time as possible, as this provides mental stimulation and also an outlet for nervous energy. Give it chewy food such as grass and hay, which will occupy it and meet its natural desire to chew better than fast foods such as grain or muesli. Companion horses, exercise and an interesting environment all help. In case the problem is nutritional, ensure that it has good access to a salt lick and a mineral stone. Try to identify anything which may be causing the horse stress (e.g. bullying by another horse) and address the issue.

These steps should result in a reduction in wood chewing. However, once the horse has the habit of chewing on wood, the habit will continue even after the reason for it is fixed. Consequently, one also needs to take steps to address the behavioral aspect in addition to the causes.

One stops the habit by making it unpleasant or impossible for the horse to chew wood. There are a number of products which are designed to taste terrible which one can paint onto wood surfaces, so the horse does not want to chew on them. For fencing, adding an electric fence wire (under current) to the top of the rails will keep the horse from chewing them. Within the stall, one can place metal strips onto the top of wood (e.g. on top of wooden stall doors).

One should make sure to address both the cause (e.g. boredom) and the behavior (e.g. with paint). Doing just one or the other is insufficient. If one fixes the cause but not the behavior, the habit is likely to continue, although to a lesser amount. If one prevents the behaviour (e.g. with paint) but does not address the underlying cause, the horse still has a problem and this may well lead to the development of a different behavioral problem.

Duber Stewart is the owner of Horses For Sale, and author of Wood Chewing

categories: horse wood chewing,horses eating wood,horse,horses,pets

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Written by Duber Stewart using tags: horse, horse wood chewing, horses, horses eating wood, Pets

Those who own hoses know how wonderful these animals are to have as a companion. They are smart, sensitive, and fun to be around. These beautiful and majestic animals require a lot of care and love. It is important to make sure your horse is happy so you can have a pleasant and gentle companion.

The following are the top 10 ways to make your horde happy:

1. Properly feed your horse. Because it is in a horse's nature to constantly graze, have set times of the day to feed it. Horses like a routine so feed at the same times of the day. A horse requires a lot of fiber so give him fresh grass or hay. As well, give him grain, but not too much as it can upset his gut. He should have access to water at all times. Water keeps the food able to ferment so it won't get solid and hard in its hind gut.

2. Give your horse plenty of exercise. You want this exercise to be like play and not all work. Exercise keeps his muscle and tendons strong, improves blood circulation, and helps with digestion.

3. Groom your horse on a daily basis. Make sure you groom all over so that his hair and skin are clean and shiny.

4. Let your horse out everyday to run free in a pasture. It is a calming experience and lets the horse be a horse. He will get exercise, fresh air, and stretch his legs. Let him spend his time with other horses.

5. Your horses stable should be warm and clean, with a soft bed. The barn should have good ventilation and he should be in the barn with other horses. Clean the stable out every day so there is no build up of his droppings. Let cats live in the barn.

6. Give your horse lots of attention. Talk to him in a gentle voice, stroke him, rub him, scratch him, and play with him. Horses love affection.

7. Everyday, use a pick to clean out its horseshoes. The shoes should also fit well and are comfortable. A horse that is in distress or uncomfortable will be cranky, bite, kick, and his ears will lay back flat.

8. A horse needs a certain time of the day to relax and be by them selves. Give them a certain time each day to be by themselves. Outdoors in a pasture is a great place for a horse to play and relax.

9. Make sure you have a Vet for your horse. You have a responsibility to ensure the horse will be taken care of medically. Horses should never live in pain or with an illness. Care also includes appropriate de-worming, checking its teeth, and keeping an eye out for such conditions as colic. As well, you must keep his hooves trimmed.

Making your horse happy will not only benefit him, but it will enhance your life and provide you with a loyal and loving companion that is easy to handle.

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Written by Adriana Noton using tags: equine, farm, horse, horse care, horse mats, horses, pet, Pets, rubber mats, stall mat

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

One begins with the general external appearance. The coat should be even, shinny and lie flat. The body should be well filled out, with well toned muscle. It should not be overweight or underweight. It should stand evenly on all four legs, with all four hooves pointing straight ahead. It is normal to rest a hind leg (but not a front leg), provided that it is not always the same leg which is rested.

Run your hands slowly down each leg, feeling for any swellings, bumps or hot spots. Give special attention to joints and the bottom of the leg. Check that each hoof is smooth, even and crack free.

Lift each foot in turn and carefully check the sole to ensure that it is correctly shaped and has no apparent injury. Both the angle and tilt of all hooves should be correct and uniform. If the horse resists lifting one or more feet, it may just be inadequate training but it could also be due to a reluctance to lift a good hoof and thereby put more weight on a bad one. Unless you are very familiar with hooves, you may wish to ask a professional farrier (blacksmith) to advise you on these various points.

Check the gums. They should be pink, shiny and moist. If they are dry, tacky, pale or any color other than salmon pink, there is a health issue. If one presses gently on the gums (careful with your fingers!), at the point where you are pressing they will turn white but as soon as you remove your finger the color should completely return to pink within two seconds.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse's droppings. They should be firm, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should appear alert, interested in things around it, and happy. It should move its ears in response to noises and hold them in an upright position.

Have the horse taken to an exercise ring and exercised at all gaits (e.g. walk, trot, and gallop). It should take easy, smooth strides of equal length and with the weight evenly spread on all four legs. It should not favor any leg. Circle the horse in both directions (left inside and right inside) to make sure that it performs equally well in both directions.

The horse should not sweat (except during hot weather) or breathe hard until it has been worked at a fast gait. As it speeds up, there should be a gradual but moderate increase in respiration. As it slows down, the respiration should quickly follow. Once its stops, it should quickly return to its resting heart and respiration rate. It should not show any sign of discomfort or limping either before or after vigorous exercise.

Ask the current owner about the horse's medical history. Ask if he will give you permission to talk with the horse's regular vet. Ask to see the medical records and inoculations book for the horse. In particular, ask if the horse has ever had colic, laminitis or any other illness. Be wary of any incomplete or evasive responses. Ask what the horse's normal diet is (horses fed a natural diet of grass, supplemented by hay, are less likely to have digestive problems than horses fed large on grains and feeds). Finally, ask the seller as to what written guarantee they provide in the event that a problem is found after sale, as this is an indication of the confidence they have in the horse's health.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the owner of Horses for Sale and the author of Healthy Horse.

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Written by Doug Stewart using tags: buy horse, equine, equines, horse, horse care, horse health, horses, Pets

When looking for a horse, the desired age is an important consideration. Horses which are too young lack maturity and training while horses which are too old cannot provide many future years of riding. Following is a review the typical advantages and disadvantages of the various ages.

4-Year Old Horse. This is a popular age, as horses usually start training at age 3, to be ready for basic riding by age 4. Consequently, you can start riding and enjoying it immediately. It is also young enough that you can do advanced training if you wish. The disadvantage is that it will tend to be somewhat more expensive to buy than a younger untrained horse.

5 to 7 Years Old. A trained horse of this age has all the advantages of a 4-year old. However, it will be more emotionally mature and calmer, and may be trained to a higher level as well. All of these factors make it easier to manage and more reliable than a younger horse, so it is more suitable for new riders and for children. However, as a horse gets older it becomes more difficult and consequently more expensive to train so one should ensure that the horse is fully trained before the end of this period.

After 7 years. Horses become calmer and more reliable as they become older, so horses in this category are often the best choice for inexperienced riders. They also are generally less expensive than younger horses. Provided that the horse has been well treated and is not too old, it can have many years of riding left in it.

3-Year Old. A three year old horse (depending on breed) is ready to start its training and you can enjoy this experience. However, it is usually less expensive to buy a trained 4 year old that is ready to ride than to buy a 3 year old and pay for a year's stabling and training.

Under 3 years. The main benefit of horses under 3 years of age is that you can have the pleasure of watching them grow up. Although such young horses are cheaper to buy, in the end it is usually less expensive to buy a trained horse than it is to buy a foal and pay for the years of stabling and then training required before it is ready to ride. Furthermore, with an older trained horse one can be more certain of the horse's physical and mental characteristics than with a foal.

The above is a general guide only. Various breeds mature at different rates, as do individual horses. Owners also vary in terms of the timetable and extent of training they provide to their horses. If you intend to compete with the horse, you need to take into account various applicable age restrictions as well as the competitive requirements in terms of timing and intensity of training.

Duber Stewart writes for Horses for Sale on horse care and ownership.

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Written by Duber Stewart using tags: age horse, buy horse, equines, horse, horse age, horses, Pets, sell horse

The phrase horse agistment comes from English law where, to agist, meant to take cattle to graze, for a remuneration. Back when agistment first came into practice it referred to the proceeds of pasturage in the king's forests. But for us, horse agistment basically means when a horse owner keeps their horse on land owned by someone else, for a fee. However, the terms, facilities and services of horse agistments vary widely.

Many horse agistment properties offer excellent care and services for horse and rider, ranging in services from spelling agistment, riding agistment and small group agistment through to agistment with full care. When looking for somewhere to place your horse, you should be sure to consider the following: are the paddocks large enough to accommodate the number of horses, will your horse be kept on improved pastures that are weed free, regularly rotated, slashed, fertilised and irrigated where required. As an extra, are winter active grasses sown to ensure your horse has feed all year round saving you from expensive feed bills. Does every paddock have horse safe fencing that is either post and rail or post and plain wire fencing only and are all well sheltered with either natural windbreaks and shade trees or quality man made structures.

Keeping your horse worm free is another point to consider so some property owners offer this service as well as things like horse dentistry. It is these kinds of services that should help you in your decisions in order to make the process as hassle free as can be. A lot of horse agistment places will also offer the added bonus of organising riding days and social events where owners can bond with their horse, and with other horse owners, while getting the horse out and about and burning off some energy.

It is in your own best interests to actually go out to the places you are considering and do an inspection of your own. This way you can talk to the staff and find out if they are properly trained and qualified. Make sure they are passionate about what they do and you can be sure your horse is in good hands... and again, make sure there are plenty of places nearby like national parks and riding trails to actually take your horse out for a ride whenever you can.

So in conclusion, if you are looking into horse agistment, it does not matter which "side of the fence" you are on, there are plenty of things to discuss when it comes to drawing up the contracts. Unfortunately, these days, contracts are an essential for these kinds of things so make sure both parties are agreed on the responsibilities of each and that all costs, fees and pricing structures are double checked before signing. Not to mention things like contingency plans for natural disasters, like flooding and forest fires, all the way to things like procedures for unexpected illness, diseases and injuries of the animals in question.

Want to find out more about horse agistment? Then visit Michelle Rudge's site on how to choose the best horse agistment property for your needs.

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Written by Michelle Rudge using tags: animals, Home, horse, horses, Pets, ponies, pony

Laminitis is a serious hoof disease found in equines (e.g. horses, ponies, donkeys). Although it is very rare for laminitis to kill a horse directly, severe cases can result in the horse being put down for humane reasons (horse is in pain) or economic factors (horse is crippled and can no longer be used). Such euthanasia is sufficiently common that laminitis has become the second most common cause of premature horse death.

The term 'laminitis' comes from 'laminae', which is the tissue which connects the hoof bone (correctly known as the pedal bone) to the hoof wall. Damage to this tissue is known as 'laminitis'. In mild cases the tissue becomes inflamed and begins to break down, reducing the strength of the bone-wall connection. In more severe cases the connection is reduced to the point that the bone begins to move, rotating within the hoof and sinking down. In extreme cases, the hoof will actually go through the sole of the hoof. As the bone moves, it can cause further damage to blood vessels and other surrounding tissues. Longer term, this damage affects the hoof repair and growth mechanisms, resulting in various types and degree of abnormal growth (e.g. convex or flat sole, hoof wall rings, separation of sole and hoof wall). In mild cases, the horse can return to normal activities. In more severe cases, the horse will need to be retired or put down.

The term 'founder' is associated with laminitis but can be used in several different senses. Some people use founder as the lay term for laminitis, while others use it to describe the more serious forms of laminitis (e.g. when the pedal bone penetrates the sole).

There are two main sources of damage to the laminae, leading to laminitis. One is toxins, which enter the blood and travel to the laminae, where they cause inflammation and tissue breakdown. The other is mechanical, where the laminae is damaged due to repeated shocks to the hoof (e.g. from running or jumping on hard surfaces).

Overly rich food changes the bacterial population in the intestines, with a subsequent release of toxins by the bacteria. It occurs when the horse received a large amount of food which is too high in carbohydrates or nitrogen. This can occur either with rich feed (e.g. grain or muesli) or lush pasture. Pasture is most likely to be too rich in spring, when rain follows a dry period, or when fertilizer has been used. As some breeds (especially ponies) are more sensitive, special care should be taken that neither their feed nor their pasture is too rich. When putting horses and ponies on rich pasture, one should limit the amount of grazing time and consider the use of a grazing muzzle to restrict the amount they eat.

Mechanically caused laminitis most often occurs in competition horses, such as jumping horses or race horses, which are worked on hard ground. However, it can also occur to pleasure horses, if they are worked or travel on hard surfaces. One should try to avoid use of a horse on hard surfaces and when it is necessary to travel on hard surfaces try to reduce the pace as a walking horse will have less shock to its feet than a running horse. Ensure that the feet are correctly trimmed; in particular avoid over-trimming or trimming for long toes as these reduce the shock resistance of the feet. If the horse has shoes, ensure that the shoeing is done by a competent professional. Shock absorbing shoes (e.g. horse shoes with a rubber component) and boots are increasingly used, even in competitive sports, to reduce not only the risk of laminitis but also other shock related injuries.

The third major cause of laminitis is toxins which are unrelated to overly rich feed. This includes toxins which are ingested (e.g. through moldy hay, or grass which has been treated with herbicides) or toxins which are produced due to an infection within the horse. Ensure that food does not contain fungus, mold or chemicals. Ensure that any infections are promptly and aggressively treated, before they can result in toxin overload leading to laminitis.

The above article on Laminitis and Founder was written by Dr. Doug Stewart.

categories: laminitis,founder,horse,horses,equine,horse disease,horse illnesses,horse illnesses,pets

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Written by Doug Stewart using tags: equine, founder, horse, horse disease, horse illnesses, horses, laminitis, Pets

People can be allergic to horses, which can result in one or more of the following symptoms: - Itchy or watery eyes - Runny or itchy nose - Itchy skin, hives or rashes - Coughing or Sneezing - Breathing problems - Asthma attack

The severity of these symptoms can range from a minor runny nose to a serious asthma attack. In the case of asthma sufferers, care should be taken when first coming into contact with horses, as there have been a few cases of fatal asthma attacks. This is doubly true for asthmatic children, who in the excitement of being with horses may not notice the early symptoms, so they should be monitored by an adult when first encountering horses to ensure that they do not have a serious adverse reaction.

The most common cause of horse allergies is horse dander (bits of hair and skin which flake off, like dandruff). Other common causes include horse mites, urine and even horse salvia.

One can easily have an allergic reaction without touching or being close to a horse. If one enters a barn or other enclosed area which has been recently used to hold horses, one can have a reaction to allergic agents which remain even though no horses are present at the time. Likewise, if one has a friend or family member who rides, it is quite possible to have a reaction when coming into contact with their riding clothes, tack or even their hair as allergic agents can easily be rubbed into these.

Fortunately, horse allergies can be treated, using the same approaches as for other allergies. These include avoidance (if practical and acceptable), medications (such as anti-histamines or corticosteroids), or desensitizing treatment.

If you wish to ride but are allergic to horses, you may wish to try the 'curly horse' breeds as many people who suffer from horse allergies find that they are not allergic to these breeds.

Finally, you could try medical testing or trial-and-error to determine which aspect of the horse you are allergic to and then simply take care to avoid this aspect. For example, if allergic to urine, rather than go into the stable to get your horse, have it brought out to you. As another example, if allergic to horse mites, have your horse and its box treated against mites, which should greatl

The article Allergy to Horses was written by Doug Stewart, as part of his series on Horse Care.

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Written by Doug Stewart using tags: allergies, allergy, animals, asthma, equine, horse, horses, pet, Pets

This breed of horse was originally bred in England due to the English horsemens desire to have a fast race horse. There are three that founded this bloodline which are: Byerley Turk, Darley Arabian and Godolphin Arabian, named after their respective owners, Thomas Darley, Lord Godolphin and Captain Robert Byerley. All of these stallions were imported to England from the Mediterranean Middle East between 1670 and 1710. The result was an animal that could carry weight with sustained speeds over extended distances. Approximately ninety percent of modern thoroughbreds have descended from Eclipse whose grandsire was Darley Arabian, who was never beaten in eighteen races.

This began a very selective breeding process which has been going on for nearly 250 years. Bringing up the better stallions to the most estimable female horse* to produce quick racehorses, affording them favourable position and excellence being established on the racecourse.

Around the turn of the 1700s, breeding records for Thoroughbreds were sparse and usually incomplete, and many times, they would not name a horse until the young horse had proven them self worthy. A gentleman named James Weatherby, through his own research and hard work and by the consolidation of his own privately kept pedigree records published the first volume of the General Stud Book. This was done in 1791. The first publication listed 387 mares, each of which could trace back to Eclipse. The General Studbook is still published in England by Weatherby and Sons, Secretaries to The English Jockey Club.

Some years later later, as thoroughbred racing proliferated in North America the need for a pedigree registry for American Bred Thoroughbreds, similar to the General Stud Book became apparent. In 1873, the first American Stud Book was published by Colonel Sanders D. Bruce. This man spent almost a lifetime researching the pedigrees of American Thoroughbreds. He followed the pattern of the General Stud Book producing six volumes of the register until 1896 when the project was taken over by The Jockey Club. The integrity of the American Stud Book is the foundation on which all Thoroughbred racing in North America Depends.

The first publication of the American Stud Book by The Jockey Club had a foal crop of around 3,000. In 1986 in had grown to an astonish 51,000. Today The Jockey Club runs an elaborate new computer technology to meet the registration challenges posed by the gigantic number of annual registrations. The Jockey Club owns and operates one of the most sophisticated computer operations in the world today, with its database holding more than 1.8 million horses on a master pedigree file, with names that trace back to the 1800s. This is quite impressive genealogy. As well as bloodlines, this computer system also handles daily racing results of every Thoroughbred race in North America, as well as the ability to process electronically submitted pedigree and racing data from England, Ireland, France and other leading Thoroughbred countries.

Another descendant of Darley Arabian is Diomed; he won the first running of the Kentucky Derby in 1780. When he was twenty one years old he was brought to the United States where he produced the male line through his son, Sir Archie.

The most world renowned horse race is the Kentucky Derby, being the first race of the Triple Crown. The Preakness and The Belmont follow this historical racing event. Thoroughbreds are the horse of choice for track racing. Most thoroughbreds are born between January and April, but their official date of birth is January 1 of the current year. During their first year of growth, they are developing size and power with the youngster beginning his training as a yearling. The horse learns to accept a bridle and a saddle and soon after a rider on his back to break the horse and prepare him for the starting gate and the run around the track.

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• Get into Bed with Cheryl Brooks (Author Interview) Everybody say hi and welcome Cheryl Brooks, author of the Cat Star Chronicles, to Love Romance Passion. Grab a cup of something hot and let's get down to business. Below is the interview: Thank you so much Cheryl for sitting down to chat! How did you come up with......
• US Department of Justice objects to Google book plan [/caption] The US Department of Justice has said that it is still not satisfied with a deal that would allow search giant Google to build a vast digital library. It said the plan failed to address antitrust and copyright concerns. It echoes objections by online retailer Amazon, which has said......
• Book Review: It Happened One Autumn by Lisa Kleypas I had some unfamiliar and ear-wax color substances to avoid while reading this book; those are potential problems with any secondhand novel, though I must say I’ve never encountered anything quite like this. lol. Anyway despite the somewhat repulsive quality of my copy of It Happened One Autumn, I......
• Book Review: The Automatic Millionaire: A Powerful One-Step Plan to Live and Finish Rich By David Bach David Bach is well known for his books, Smart Women Finish Rich and Smart Couples Finish Rich and in this latest effort, he goes into more detail on the techniques he discussed in these books. While the title would make you think it’s yet another get rich quick scheme, it......

Written by Paul Hubert Comberdale using tags: horse, horses, Pets, race horse, race horses